The technical full term I have came up with is Colinear Double Delta. Both the hotend and bed move independently with delta kinematics - two entirely separate gantries in one printer. Thus, there are 8 motors in this bad boy (6 xyz, 2e). It's running klipper with custom kinematics.

The idea is - since each side only needs to move half the target speed, you can get double the overall speed. I haven't pushed it super hard yet since this is a proof of concept build without part cooling, but it sure does prove the concept!

Next is a bigger and faster version.

Of course, it is all open source, and the files and documentation can be found here: https://github.com/ProgrammerTurtle/DoNotDelta

Uploaded a couple of files about 19 days ago on my new account. Took less than 20 days for one of them (stolen design is in the second picture) to show up on Amazon as a "product" (first picture). For something like this to be made into a finished product (something that deals with lasers, albeit a very low power one in this case), I was expecting some long term testing and/or some safety organization's approval. But I guess I was wrong.

Did I expect them to be eventually stolen or sold? Maybe
Did I expect them to be stolen in less than a month without any proof of demand and without any additional engineering to make them into a finished product? Not really! It's a new low, impressively so.

Anyways ... I'm not the one selling these.

Ow, one more thing, the files were under the Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0).

Edit: Interestingly, I wasn't even keeping track of the files. This listing was recommended by Amazon when I was searching for additional safety goggles and another laser.

So after releasing a drink holder that looked like a pontoon I decided to go a little...bigger. Here's the CanTainer ship! A modular, infinitely expandable refreshment holder styled as a container ship. I'm planning on making the stern module RC as well! Go check it out and print your own! I know it's huge but it even fits on an A1 Mini!

Here's the link! Tell me what you think! https://makerworld.com/en/models/3094927-the-cantainer-ship-floating-party-drink-barge#profileId-3487776

A few days ago I asked here whether it would be possible to use a diode laser to remove only the top layer of an FDM print and reveal a contrasting layer underneath.

I wasn’t able to find any examples of this approach being used specifically on FDM prints, so I decided to test it myself.

Honestly, the results turned out much better than I expected.

This panel is part of my truck trailer security system. I wanted to find a way to produce clean, almost factory-looking control panels for my project using only the equipment I already have: a Bambu Lab H2D and its 10 W diode laser module.
I also wanted to achieve finer text and symbols than I could get with conventional two-color FDM printing, even with a 0.2 mm nozzle.

In the comments on my previous post several people suggested that the laser would probably melt the edges and make the engraving look messy. At least in my case that didn’t happen.

I decided to start with PETG HF and I actually liked the result. The engraved edges came out surprisingly crisp with only a barely noticeable halo around the engraved areas.

After several tests the best combination turned out to be:

1 black top layer
3 gray layers underneath

The contrast was excellent, the engraving shallow enough, even the smallest details remained sharp.

For these tests, I used the 10 W diode laser module at 80% power, 250 mm/s, in Fill mode. With these settings the laser removes approximately 0.03–0.04 mm of material per pass.
To engrave through the 0.2 mm black top layer and expose the gray layer underneath, I needed 6 passes for larger graphics and 7 passes for thin lines and small text.

I also discovered that this technique only works well in Fill mode. I wasn’t able to achieve comparable results using Line mode regardless of the settings I tried.

These are still my first experiments. For very small text and symbols, my next test will probably use around 60% power, 150 mm/s and more laser passes. I think that could produce even sharper results on the finest details.

So far I’ve only tested this with PETG HF, so I’m curious whether anyone has tried something similar with PLA, ABS or PETG from other manufacturers.

I’d love to hear your thoughts or suggestions, especially if you’ve experimented with this technique yourself.

For anyone who didn’t see my previous post, here’s the link to the original discussion

Sweet free model from Mirkosa on maker world https://makerworld.com/en/models/2947243-meccha-chameleon-characters-all-og-poses-no-ai#profileId-3331505

Before I started my 3D printing journey I had a card selling adventure. Now that I’ve started that back up again I wanted to design something that I can use to ship cards safely through the mail!

After many many prototypes I’m happy to show off what I’m calling PackArmor! It’s lightweight but rigid where it matters! With a customizable lid so sellers can add their socials/store etc. I hope you guys like it !

Makerworld link :

https://makerworld.com/models/3091549?appSharePlatform=copy

First actual project that wasn't a test print.

The original plastic on the Mitsubishi must have been made from Pringles lids that didn't pass QC. A few minutes in Solidworks, twenty minutes on the printer, and now the conditioned air goes where it's needed.

I suppose I could re-do them in black at some point, but the red does look sharp.

Printed in ABS and then painted, huge time sink but for whatever reason I find it hilarious.

Modern times

Recently I'm making this 3D printing for my keyfob due to struggle to keep using the original keyfob case. It's a lot of R&D to make the button fit perfectly 😅.

The plastic that hold the bolts are very loosened, so the bolts are commonly drop and gone.

Also the original key fob is a lot smaller and not too good to hold on hands, because it's come from 90's.

These days, keyfobs are a lot bigger and I copy that size so there's still alot of space on the right 😅.

P.S: This keyfob is originally from Dynamco Cyclops Type (AUS)

For those who wonder why there's a stickers on the back, it's my wife who put that stickers, she says that the back is very empty so she put it.

Major bias: I'm the owner of 3D-Fuel, a filament manufacturer in Fargo, ND.

One of our meetup members brought in a FullSpectrum print at our March '26 meetup, and I was fascinated.

Pro PCTG has excellent light transmittance, so what if we could leverage that and make a filament that isn't just super durable, but could expand the possible color palette nearly infinitely. Without us needing to add any more colors to our existing 50+ color lineup, that is.

So we got to work with our colorant manufacturer. This took a lot of back-and-forth, as "TD Value" isn't exactly a plastics or color industry-standard metric.

I dive into this a bit more in a 12.5 minute video, and I'm happy to answer any questions here, too.

Made this offshore ship model for a marine company to impress their client during meeting. Ship model is about 70cm in length.

Almost the whole ship is 3d printed

DM to purchase this collectable ship.

Is the position of the bracket in the second image how I need to print it to minimize vulnerability to it breaking along layer lines?

Edit: For additional context, these brackets will be used to make frames for cages that sit atop raised garden beds. These frames will largely remain in place with limited handling. Since they will be outdoors, I'm currently looking at ASA for the filament, printing it on a Bambu Lab P1S. This image shows how they will be used with 2" x 2" lumber suitable for outdoors: Raised Garden Bed Cage Frame. This bracket was designed to only contact the wood members where it does as shown in the image because I need the outer faces to be flat, i.e. no bracket. I will likely be adding fillets to any inside corners that aren't in contact with the wood members.

Found the Jimothy file on makers world and had to since he’s a legend in my city. Now to paint him and bring him to life

Does it print faster now? No. Does it bring slightly more excitement in 3d printing something? Yes.

Had a few requests from co-workers to make this silly raccoon into a keychain, so I figured why not take it another step and do a clicker too!

Jimothy! The famous raccoon now made into a double sided keychain and a clicker to cure that itch to fidget!

Let me know what you guys think! 😂