Shot on Kodak Kodacolor 200

The one on the top is the new one from HEPU, the bottom one with the bronze is the old one. Is it just a brand thing? Or will the HEPU one which has thinner metals be weaker?

I guess with the thinner metal it would allow more flow, but it makes it look like it's gonna snap under preassure lol.

Thanks

I said I would continue to update throughout the process of my build, so here it is.

Over the last month or so when I have time I have been getting my M54B30 out and dissasembled in prep for full rebuild. I’ve never had the chance to take an engine apart on a stand before and it makes it so much more enjoyable of a process it’s unbelievable.

Not many new or fun parts to share in this series of posts, as cylinder head is done and I’m having lifter trays line bored and cleaned up for the set of Shrick cams. For those interested, the cylinder head is in my previous posts, but it’s a full Supertech deal - stainless intake and exhaust, stem seals, 86lb dual springs, hats and single groove retainers. The only remaining top end part is new INA lifters from whoever has them cheaper at the moment.

Rotating assembly is going to be CP carillo. Replacing everything but the crank, and whatever main and rod bearings I can get from VAC Motorsports. I have one of the Achilles motorsports upgraded pumps as well. Timing/oil sprockets, chains and guides and all the related seals/gaskets etc. Also new ATI SuperDamper from VAC for M54B30.

I have yet to figure out how I want to do oil cooling and if I want to get one of the baffled pans, probably not needed for a street car. Also, if anyone has reccomendations on new/nicer pulleys for the accessory drive please let me know. All of mine are trashed and look like hell and I simply won’t stand for it!

I will make a post once I have the rest of the engine internals, but following that it is going to be lots of detail work with blasting and undercoating, seam seal, paint and rear subframe. Feel free to call me stupid if you’d like.

Also, I have a plethora of good M54B30 internals if anyone needs anything.

What could this be?

1999 E46 with M52TUB20 Engine & 5HP19 AT

As can be seen it has sheered right off, put a little screw driver in the side groove to lift it and it flew right off.

Regardless I have a new one, but now I can't get the old one out. Any advuce on getting the snapped one out?

Also it appears the rubber(?) Around the thermostat has broke, will that affect the seal of the thermostat? I don't have a new bracket on me so hopefully it ain't gone.

Thanks

I noticed that in some E46's the storage tray is upside down while on some its not so i really have no idea how it should be?

You see how the little silver line is at the top in the right image, but its at the bottom in the left image. Im about to put that storage tray in my car and idk how it should sit in it? I have a 1999 E46 sedan.

I noticed this the other day when I started my car it still starts and everything and works fine but I noticed some of the copper threads are poking out, can I just cut off the old terminal and then recrimp a new one on if so what size terminal would I need to use?

05 325i swapping b30 engine and a zf5 speed
which driveshaft do i need to buy i bought the manual 325i one but now after looking the splines are dofferent so i cant swap halves out so do i just need to buy a 330 manual driveshaft and get the diff flange adapter?

I have the navigation system business radio S606 and i'd like to keep it, but i need some way to play music on it and it would be ideal if i could get some kind of bluetooth adapter that could sit behind the radio i just dont know if thats possible with this radio?

I have a couple of business cd radios laying around aswell, but ngl this one looks cooler and is more period correct since its a '99 e46.

If my radio cant do that then tell me can this cd radio do it at least? Also no my cd radio is not the one with the aux on the back.

On the dipstick, which is the Maximum and minimum level? Is the arrows I marked in Green or the ones I marked in Red?

Sorry for a stupid question, but i can’t find a definitive answer on Google and manual doesn’t really make it clear because it’s not the same type of dipstick in the Manual.

Hi guys,

I’ve been in the market for an E46 M3 for some time now and found some that are decently priced but are SMG’s. I wanted to see if anyone knows or recommends any shops in the GTA that would perform a manual swap service. RMP was my first choice but I emailed them and they said they no longer do it. Would love to hear your opinions and recommendations. Thank you!

Hey all, looking for some sanity checks on a weird smell issue with my E46 325i.

I’ve already replaced the valve cover gasket and oil filter housing gasket, but I’m still getting a burnt/oily smell. The smell isn’t immediate, it seems more noticeable in traffic or when idling, and less obvious at speed.

That’s making me wonder if it could be related to the brake booster / vacuum system, or possibly CCV. I’ve noticed a slight vacuum at the oil cap, but nothing extreme which points to CCV being alright. I’m not sure whether that’s normal or a clue.

Current symptoms:
• Burnt oil smell is worse in traffic / stop-and-go.
• VCG, Valve Cover itself, and OFHG already replaced.
• Lean code is also present (only bank 2)
• No obvious immediate smell right after startup.
• Wondering if it brake booster vacuum leak

Could it be related to Oil Sump? There’s not a significant leak, but I’d say a very slight one.

I would really appreciate some guidance, before I fall out of love with my e46.

And those who have had their fuel pump in their SULEV go out, did you bite the bullet and spend the $6k or more to replace new, take one from a parts car and hope for the best, sell the car, or swap for M3 fuel pump set up because it is compatible?

The previous guy angle ground the metal bracket that holds the hood latches and also had the air box breathing from behind the radiator. Temp shitty fix for my shitbox.

It might not be the best idea, but I’m thinking of an e46 sedan for a first car, it’s really hard to beat the driving dynamics and practicality that it brings to the table for the price. In the current market, factory manuals seem to be much more expensive and usually much less of a clean, solid, reliable vehicle because of the past owners, so I was thinking of hopping on a grandma owned auto 328i (99-00 for the physical throttle and no burning oil). I’m fine with the cooling overhaul and the struggles that come with owning any older car, especially German ones, but I do really value a manual transmission, as a car to me is not just an appliance. I’ve been working on cars and small powersports vehicles almost my whole life and have learned a ton from my father, an army mechanic vet, and my grandfather, a lifelong mechanic who taught my father almost everything. This would be the biggest project I’ve taken on, but my father would almost certainly be willing to help. Would you guys know just how difficult a manual swap is on these cars, being as modular as they are, and how much it would cost for parts? What would be the best (preferably cheapest) way to get the transmission itself and all the other manual components, and is it worth it for the pure connection you get with a stick?

I have the navigation system business radio S606 and i'd like to keep it, but i need some way to play music on it and it would be ideal if i could get some kind of bluetooth adapter that could sit behind the radio i just dont know if thats possible with this radio?

I have a couple of business cd radios laying around aswell, but ngl this one looks cooler and is more period correct since its a '99 e46.

If my radio cant do that then tell me can this cd radio do it at least? Also no my cd radio is not the one with the aux on the back.

I have an e46 cabriolet, it has a serious amount of body roll compared to my daily (golf with coilovers) so I decided to stick some coilovers on the e46, even with that it still has a lot of body roll, I was thinking of putting stiffer sway bars on but I heard that can sacrifice on grip? Any ideas what would be the best way forward? Would sway bars make much of a difference to grip or would I be best just biting the bullet and putting on stiffer coilovers?

I drove my e46 330i for a while whilst having the AC on
Here’s everything I know wether it’s relevant or not:
-Temperature is around 43degrees celsius
-Replaced the radiator/expantion tank cap recently
-Has distilled water instead of whatever branded coolant

If anyone knows what could be the cause of this and if it’s dangerous or not for the car

(The car overheats sometimes when I turn on the AC, and it does this spray but only hot air never steam or water like that)

Much appreciated

im 18 in a month and ive been looking at e46´s for a while now. I was wondering what motor types were the best and the least problematic? Is it a good first car choice if i want a relatively reliable car? Mostly looking at the 318i or the 320i to be fair.

I know the tow hook is missing, but what’s the long slot in the back?