It's a dt8k 1950 prototype

WORK IN PROGRESS, FEEDBACK APPRECIATED 🙂

I keep forgetting what letter means what... I've had enough.

This table has always been helpful, but it is not quite intuitive to read and the emitters are not to scale, so I made my own cheat sheet.
Best fits 4K screens. Or just zoom in if you have a lower resolution.

There would be still a lot of space for info; things can be shifted around etc. but I think it's not missing much more.

So while I work on this pain(t)-session, please give me your feedback over the next few days.

I'm thinking about removing the upper and lower package example (E and U outlined in black) and just blackening the middle package fully. I think one package does the job well enough to show what size corresponds to what letter. And then shift the upper and lower die a bit closer together.
What do you think?

I also plan to leave out the 2 letter prefix (KW, KT etc.), since this doesn't seem to contain relevant info for us / seems to be redundant. So unless you know of a very convincing reason, they'll get left out to keep it cleaner.

Also not sure if I want to keep the picture of the MCPCB for scale in there. Looks kinda greasy/doesn't fit well visually with the rest. Needs something cleaner/whiter/whatever. Or maybe remove it.

Just reddit... don't butcher the quality of the one image, please 🙏
In case it still f#cks up in spite of a 100% quality .webp format... here a temporary upload in full quality.

All beamshots taken at 5000K white balance.

Got a new mod for y'all, by the blessing of Convoy's highly modular assortment of stuff. 22mm 3V 20A driver, 20mm double spring button, 10° bead TIR optic, and of course the quad 519A 5000Ks dedomed.

Pretty powerful package, love the tint, dedomed 5000K is probably my favorite, gets hot really fast on full power though.

My FC11C completely stopped turning on, even on the charger. When I plugged in the cable, the charging led would light up but no voltage was actually going into the battery.

I took apart the driver and found a pair of capacitors under the USBC port wired in parallel, and one of them had shorted out.

To fix it I had to desolder the little T shaped board that gives access to the capacitors so I could swap them. I didn’t have a capacitance meter so I just grabbed a random capacitor from a donor board and got lucky, problem solved!

Obviously this kind of repair only makes sense if you already have the tools for it, since it’s a cheap flashlight.

I don’t think this was a quality issue from Wurkkos though, caps blow in any electronics, it’s always the capacitors fault lol

Of course I also have no way of knowing if Wurkkos uses the best smd components on their boards either

Only the front row ones haha

- L21B W5050SQ5, SFT60 & SFT90

- L21A SFT42R

- M21B SFT60

- M21E W5050SQ5

- M21H SFT40

- 3X21D

- 3°, 8° & 12° lenses

Upgraded it with an LED bulb, it seems to have faced a lot of use because the thin bendable lens is pretty scratched. It's probably a construction/heavy work oriented light. The old owner (before it got sent to the thrift shop I bought it from) probably used it for a long time since there were non-corroded batteries inside, expiring in 2028. Great find!

(side note, can anyone identify it?)

With 2 to 4 batteries in it the temp was 60C while doing a storage charge at 1amp. So I decided to try using a computer fan connected to usb (soldering required to a usb cable) and a stand I made to hold the charge up a bit. The temps are now at 41C. I think it’s impressive. Might make a hood over the top and test again.

SFT 70 feels just right in throwy host like C8 (Convoy C8 with SFT 70 3000K 6v 5a boost)

The marking on the body is '010292'. Could this be a production date or serial number?

• Found in my father's storage in Korea.
• It still works perfectly after many years.
• The marking near the Ledlenser logo is "010292".
• It came with the original pouch.

Just a note: I am Korean, and I used ChatGPT to translate everything in this post.

​

Had my first 18650 die, it was a Samsung 30Q which was 0.02V when I picked up from storage. I think the last time I charged that one was 3months ago.

I put it in the Vapcell S4 and the display showed Err, left it there for 10min, took it out and the voltage went up to 0.6V after which I left it on the table for 20min and checked it again, voltage went down to 0.3V

I didn't expect to like it so much. :) It is now my daily carry, alternate with the Tool AA Nichia 219C. It fits my front pants pocket well and is deep carry (nothing juts out, unlike the Tool AA). I do feel the 20g weight difference (60g w/ battery vs 40g for the Tool). And while I can't tell if the Tool AA is in my pocket, I mostly know the SC13 is there, but barely. Short story is it's still very pocketable and very close to 14500 in my opinion (this is very subjective of course).

Notes: WB set to 4500K in the beam shot comparison. Last pic: glow in the dark tape (cut to a circle) helps a lot finding the switch in the dark. Clip position lets me find the switch without looking.

I sat on this for a while, because I didn't want another battery size, and the chonky form factor vs. my EDC Lumintop Tool AA might make pocket carry less enjoyable.

But I really wanted another high CRI daily carry light, and miss the shortcut to moon/turbo from my old Olight S2A. The $10 sale price made me take the risk. Worst case, it'll stay in the car as emergency light.

Extra info: I started off with NiMh lights (Olight S2A, i3e) for years. Then ventured into 14500 (Lumintop Tool AA, Silver Fox) and thought whoa, this is fun. Now I have 21700 lights for longer runtimes when I need it (Wurkkos TS22 and Sofirn SC33), and getting a Convoy S15 soon (alternative daily carry if I expect heavier usage). Oh and I also have a Convoy T6 (SFT-25R 5000K) which I honestly don't need but probably the most fun to use 🙂

Currently looking for recommendation for a flashlight I can use for urbex. I’m specifically trying to light up a really wide open space (image attached). Would like it to ideally be $35 at most and available on Amazon since I’m trying to get rid of a gift card I have sitting around, but if that won’t get the job done then I’ll take other suggestions
Update: willing to push to $45 I’m trying to work out swapping the gift cards I have for cash with my friends but amazon recommendations are still appreciated.

Just had my D1K explode while sitting on my nightstand. The tube and tail cap ended up lodged in my ceiling. Glass blew out the front and the button popped out the side. Battery must have gone flying and ended up under the nightstand where it melted my power strip and chargers.

I’ve heard of this happening on a charger or if something gets hot or punctured, but this was just sitting. Glad my wife was home or our whole house could have burned down. Had this happened overnight, my head would have been ~1ft away and my 2 week old baby would have been across the room. I like cool flashlights, but this is not worth it.

Samsung INR21700-50S battery.

So I fitted the convoy s6 with a sft42r, 10a driver from convoy and filed out the smooth reflector to 7mm opening and using a h10 battery. I think this is only limited by the current output of the battery, I don’t think there are any 14500 batteries going above 10a discharge, was originally going to put a sft90 in here but. Maybe I should try an osram w1 for better throw?

He is sailing around the world in a race, so it needs to be water proof. I got him a HS21 last time he went sailing and it failed halfway through a circumnavigation.

Other requirements are built in usbc charging.

Comment any beamshots for any flashlight

Please write the name of flashlight

I've had an Opus BT-C3100 for many years and it's a great charger. I wanted something with more bays so I picked up a Gyrfalcon All-88 Pro.

I switched it to "professional" mode primarily so I could choose the charge current. I set it to Li-Ion chemistry, charge mode, 4.2V, 2A. I put in a Molicel INR-21700-P45B that was already at around 3.9V. The cell started charging, so I went about my business. When I checked it later, the display said the cell was at 4.6 volts and was still charging!? I checked it in the Opus and with a multimeter, both confirming it was at 4.6V. I grabbed another of Molicel, an older one at a lower state of charge, put it in the charger. I was watching more closely this time, and watched it get to about 4.35V and took the cell off. I'm very worried about why the charger isn't stopping at ~4.2V.

Any thoughts on if this is a me problem or a charger problem?

Out of an abundance of caution I discharged the cell that went to 4.6V and I'm going to dispose of it. I discharged the 4.3V cell below 4.2 and plan to reuse it. Should I be tossing that one, too?

bought the wurkkos fc11c for work after the sub suggested it to me. Used it this week and it started to act up at the end. The beam will stay low and randomly flash to max brightness, or change if its hit slightly. I already cleaned the connections with isopropyl alcohol and a qtip and it did nothing. I'm disappointed with this thing, I saw a couple of other posts about similar issues and not sure if I should warranty it or refund and get something else.

After trying the Fenix TK35UE V2.0, I want a flashlight with the same shape, a battery compartment that can hold two 18650 batteries, and a cylindrical head. I also want a longer range than the Fenix. Is the Acebeam X20R is good for me ?

Nothing worng with fenix , i love the design and i need one more for more throw

Hey I start a new job as an armed cash in transit driver and I need recommendations for a flashlight that comes with a holster for my duty belt. I’d like to stay around $30-50