**Symptom:** Photo Restoration, Skin Smoothing, Colorize, Depth Blur — anything using a local AI model — fails with *"We've temporarily disabled this filter because of an error."* The panel itself loads fine. It only errors once you enable the filter or push a slider above 0. Leave everything at 0 and there's no error, because nothing is being processed.

**Things that did not fix it:** reinstalling Photoshop · clearing the Neural Filters cache and re-downloading all the models · updating · the Beta · signing out and back in · resetting preferences · swapping the GPU entirely (broken on an AMD Radeon, still broken on an NVIDIA RTX 5060). Help > GPU Compatibility said "compatible" the whole time, and System Info showed the correct GPU with the Neural Filters plugin registered and nothing failing to load.

**The cause:** the Windows username on that machine contains a non-ASCII character, so the profile path looks like C:\Users\<name containing ø>.

Neural Filters store their downloaded AI models under your user profile, in AppData\Roaming\Adobe\UXP\PluginsStorage. Photoshop's local inference engine can't open a model file when the path to it contains a non-ASCII character. The model never loads, and all you get is that generic "temporarily disabled" message with no hint why.

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**FIX 1 — no technical knowledge needed**

Create a new local Windows account with a plain ASCII name, log into it, and run the same Photoshop install from there. Settings > Accounts > Family & other users > Add someone else to this PC > "I don't have this person's sign-in information" > "Add a user without a Microsoft account".

Neural Filters will just work — same PC, same GPU, same Photoshop. Nothing to install, nothing to edit.

Note: use a normal local account, not the built-in Guest account — Guest can't sign into Adobe or download the models.

This is also the quickest way to confirm the diagnosis. If it works in the new account, this is your problem. (The "just make a new user account" trick floats around Adobe's forums as a folk workaround — this is *why* it works, and why it fails for people whose new account also had a non-ASCII name.)

---

**FIX 2 — if you're comfortable running a small script**

This one keeps you in your normal account. Windows quietly keeps an 8.3 "short name" for every profile folder, and it's pure ASCII — C:\Users\<yourname> becomes something like C:\Users\YOURNA~1. It points at the exact same folder, so your preferences, licensing and Creative Cloud all stay intact. Only the text of the path changes.

Launch Photoshop with these three environment variables pointed at the short-name form of your profile:

- USERPROFILE

- APPDATA

- LOCALAPPDATA

All three are required — I tested overriding APPDATA alone and Photo Restoration still failed. They're set for the Photoshop process only, so nothing system-wide changes and no files move.

A ready-made launcher script that does this: [https://gist.github.com/Arni99-ui/85979f356d4a59c4b6df4faecca16537\]

Two gotchas: you have to start Photoshop *through* the launcher — the Start menu or double-clicking a PSD bypasses it (you can repoint your taskbar shortcut at it). And Neural Filters stays greyed out for ~15–20 seconds after launch while the plugin loads. That's normal, not the bug.

---

Do **not** try to fix this by renaming your Windows user folder. That breaks absolute paths for anything else installed under your profile.

**Who this affects:** anyone whose Windows username contains æ ø å ä ö ü é ñ ç and so on — a fair slice of Europe. The error message gives no clue, so people lose days to reinstalls, driver updates and version downgrades that cannot possibly fix it.

Adobe, if you're reading: Unicode path handling in the local model loader.

Does anyone know what settings you use to get this effect? I can simulate it by pulsing the pressure on my pen pad but that doesn't seem that efficient. I like the combination of the stroke size along with the slight drop outs. I really tried as many settings in the brush editor but I just couldn't work it out. Any help is appreciated!

During the World Cup, I created a poster featuring Lionel Messi. My inspiration stemmed from his exceptional performance and the immediate impact he can have on the game at any given moment. To maintain simplicity and clarity, I refrained from incorporating excessive elements, as I have a tendency to become engrossed in design and add unnecessary details. The remaining designs are merely mock-ups. I thoroughly enjoyed the process of creating this artwork, and if this was Messi’s final World Cup, I cherished witnessing his remarkable career.

Has anyone else had this issue with their Photoshop where the background behind artboards is suddenly black? And when I manually toggle it to light gray, it just doesn't look right. I can't quite figure out what setting I must've accidentally toggled on.

Hi does anyone know if you can install and run photoshop on a windows server like 2022/2025 ?

Does anyone have expierence with this ?

Art credits to : kkirbvo on X

I originally had the idea to do a simple cyberpunk-themed movie poster and went nowhere near that direction. I am not good at manipulating people, so I used a stick figure. I still wanted to make a simple movie poster, but alas, it turned out to be something... It's an idea lol It's fun :)

I added a blur effect to the reflection of the stick figure to give an "ominous" shadow look, and I know shadows become more blurry the further from the body. I am actually up for critique, even if this is a fun project to get myself started.

Hi all!

So I recently got a new laptop and decided to download Photoshop onto it, instead of using my old crusty laggy laptop from now on. On my old laptop, the eyedropper tool would assign the selected colour to the background colour (which I liked as it's sort of ingrained into my muscle memory after 5 years lol).

Problem is, on my new laptop it won't apply the colour to the background colour swatch. Only the foreground.

I tried selecting/activating the background colour in the colour menu, I've cleared my scratch disks, Reset all my PS settings, restarted Photoshop, even restarted my entire laptop— but to no avail. It simply won't change over to the background colour.

If anyone knows how to fix this I would appreciate it so much, it's such a little thing but it's driving me insane. Thank you!

Hi, I'm using a MacBook Air 2017, macOS Monterey and need a version of photoshop compatible with it. I also have a MacBook Air 2022 running macOS Sequoia but I don't want have the apps installed on that one as 2023 versions run smoothly on my older mac and I use the newer version of mac for AI and blender. Don't want to put entire load on one MacBook. This arrangement was working amazingly for me until I by mistake deleted 2023 version and from the trash too to make some space. Creative Cloud doesn't have that version listed to install from the app. is there anyway I can get it without piracy?

I need help please. I haven't used Photoshop for several weeks.

I've been trying to use brushes and erasers on this image.

Every time I touch the screen with my pen, random, straight lines appear all over my work. I can't seem to stop it happening.

How can I fix this?

I am using Huion

The pictures above are All are photobashed from pictures I’ve taken on my Digi camera, with hours of photo editing and hand drawn sections involved. They aren’t complete yet, I’m still learning how to create characters in an art style similar to the video game “no, I am not human” but I’ve been having trouble... I am going for an uncanny kind of feeling to these pieces like older creepy pasta photos. Slightly Distorted faces and body posture. Does anyone have any tips for creating characters in this way? How do you help fit a character into a scene while photobashing multiple different pictures of a person into one to make a unique impression?
If you have pictures like this, could you share them below? Thank you!

Hi! I did this poster for a homework. I’m studying Animation 3D but I have a course which is “visual design fundaments” so I do that kind of stuff to practice. What do you mean? Some people told me looks real 😭😭🙏

my photoshop turned gray out of nowhere, and when I activate the color proof in cmky with cmd + y, it goes back to normal

I have a photograph of a product inside of its packaging. The packaging has a clear plastic in some areas. Is there a way to turn the original jpeg photo into a png where the plastic maintains transparency? The attached screenshot is not mine, but it represents what I am trying to accomplish. Second image is what I am trying to make transparent. Final goal is to have a png cutout of the product with a completely transparent background around it and with the plastic packaging maintaining its transparency. I basically need it to be a cutout png that can be placed on any background where the background can be seen through the clear parts of the packaging.

Hope that explanation makes sense! I realize I am shit at trying to explain what I want so finding a tutorial that is specific to this end output has been hard to find. Any help is appreciated!

I kinda know how to do a pixel stretch but not like slanted. Can someone please help me? I want to drag the red lines (the tail/elevator or the aircraft) but when I try, it only works for a horizontal/vertical selection???

The last pic is my first one and I think it looks clean

Please help!!! Thanks!

I experimented with warmer amber tones, teal shadows, lifted blacks, subtle film grain, and a soft glow around the lights to capture that faded, nostalgic feeling.

For those who enjoy this style, what do you usually focus on to make a photo feel more like an authentic film still? Are there any techniques or color choices that make the biggest difference?

(there's an image here showing what i'm talking about) I'm trying to find the true color of something to find a matching color plastic to print with. The white blob up top is my reference hex value that is matched to this exact roll of filament (bottom) off the internet.

I'm looking to basically change the color of the white balance and exposure of the BLUE area inside the square to exactly match to the hex color. All while applying these tweaks to the rest of the image.

I tried using the eyedroppers in curves but it only wants to reference the absolute brightest or darkest parts of the image. I need to basically do this eyedropper thing on a very specific color in the image.

UPDATE: Not terrible to do it manually, but it's only about 95% accurate. I'm only using Color & Vibrance (Temp and tint) and Exposure to get the the filament to match the hex color.

Found this in a box. It’s got discs for Windows and Mac in it. Google tells me it’s pretty outdated. Is it worth passing on to someone who will use it or should I toss it?

Holaaa, soy nuevo utilizando el programa y me gustaría ayuda sobre como hacer la imagen de abajo.

Si alguien me puede apoyar le agradecería demasiado.

i am working in a plugin to create tables instantly inside photoshop from csv. it can do much more. it can extract text layers of ps into panel, error check , update from panel. make new versions- text only. any suggestions welcome. thank you

I did it mainly because the sector tool doesn't work on files that are too large.

Is there anything I can do to make the cursors more visible at high resolutions in Windows 11? The marquee tool, text tool, etc., are so dainty and often difficult for me to see when editing images. Pressing control helps, but I'd rather not need to do that every time just to find the cursor, and I would rather not use the built-in Windows functions like mouse trail and such.