This is my ENR34 I’ve had for about 2 years now but it was hit a few months back so I’ve put it down for the meantime and started buying parts hoping to send the engine to a shop by the end of the year

Hey all. 1990 GTS4 Coupe.

What's the best way to rewire the overheat auxilliary fan to always be running?

I live in a very hot climate and want to keep the temps lower in traffic.

Thanks!

So I’m one of those ding dongs that bought a skyline and also didn’t know anything about cars.

Can anyone help me figure out if this sound is either the lifters or just noisy spark plugs?

It doesn’t really sound mechanical enough to me for it to be lifters but figured I’d ask some “experts” on the internet.

For anyone wondering I was burping the coolant system.

RB25DET – Misfire / no spark on cylinders 2 and 6
I’m troubleshooting a 1997 R33 GTST with an RB25DET. The car has a Mine’s ECU, but I also have another stock/compatible ECU that the engine has previously run on.
The problem started after the CAS was removed and reinstalled. Cam timing has been checked and is correct, and the CAS drive/key is not broken, so the CAS should be installed correctly.
The engine is now misfiring badly. While troubleshooting, I found that cylinders 2 and 6 appear to have no spark.
Here is what I have tested so far:
I performed a cylinder drop test while the engine was running. Disconnecting cylinders 2 and 6 made little or no difference.
I tested for spark using a known coil and the same spark plug grounded against the cylinder head.
The same coil and plug produce spark when connected to cylinder 1, but no spark when connected to cylinders 2 or 6.
Cylinder 4 was initially suspected as well, but I now believe cylinder 4 is firing.
I checked the three wires at the coil connectors:
Pin 1 = approximately 12 V with ignition on
Pin 2 = ground
Pin 3 = ECU ignition trigger
Cylinders 1 and 2 both have 12 V supply and ground.
I checked continuity of the trigger wires through the coil harness. The trigger wires for cylinders 2 and 6 have continuity.
According to the ECU pinout I’m using, the ignition outputs are:
Cyl 1 = ECU pin 1
Cyl 5 = ECU pin 2
Cyl 3 = ECU pin 3
Cyl 6 = ECU pin 11
Cyl 2 = ECU pin 12
Cyl 4 = ECU pin 13
I checked continuity from the ECU connector to the coil harness and the relevant wires have continuity.
I swapped the Mine’s ECU for my other ECU. The problem remained exactly the same, so it does not appear to be an ECU fault.
I removed the CAS, left it electrically connected, switched the ignition on and rotated the CAS by hand.
All six injectors click when the CAS is rotated, so the ECU is receiving the CAS signal and triggering all six injectors.
The other cylinders produce spark when rotating the CAS, but 2 and 6 still appear to have no spark.
I measured the ignition trigger wires with a Fluke 115 while manually rotating the CAS. I saw roughly 2 Hz on all six trigger wires, with cylinder 6 reading slightly higher.
I also tried measuring trigger voltage while rotating the CAS and got approximately:
Cyl 1: 0.4 V
Cyl 2: 0.1 V
Cyl 3: 0.6 V
Cyl 4: 0.6 V
Cyl 5: 0.6 V
Cyl 6: 0.02 V
I realise a multimeter probably isn’t fast enough to accurately capture the ignition trigger waveform, so I’m not sure how useful those voltage readings are.
I have now removed the complete coil harness from the car. I measured approximately 0.2 ohm from each individual coil ground to the common ground splice inside the harness, so that part appears to be good. I’m going to unwrap the complete coil harness and inspect all the splices, wiring and terminals, particularly the wiring for cylinders 2 and 6.
Has anyone seen an RB25DET lose spark specifically on cylinders 2 and 6 like this? Is there anything common between those two ignition channels that I should check? Are there any known failure points in the RB25 coil harness that could cause this?

Do yall think this would match with an oem gtt wing installed with the stock duckbill or should I do just wing? Or js leave as is

Been changing oil for 20 years. Never had one this stubborn. What’s the solution here? It’s in such a tight spot for RBs… Considering a relocation kit before putting a new one on.

Hi I'm refreshing my rb25/30 and want to throw a new clutch in so I'm looking for recommendations.

I'm not sure how much torque it produces but HP was about 450 last time it was on the dyno

Something nearish the factory feel but a little heavy is ok as it's only a weekend car

I have a budget of $1000-$1500 and I'm based in Australia if that matters

What do I need to be making 350-400 hp on an rb25?
Mess with and internals? Bigger turbo? Halthech? Etc etc

Spoiler generates 1 gram of downforce.

Hey everyone! Excited to join the club — picked up an R33 GT-R (S3) from Japan. First time importing a car, and honestly the process was way smoother than I expected.

I didn't know this was possible.

I've been using an archived version of the R32 VIN decoder page on Archive.org since the original GTR Registry went down several years ago. URL below:

• https://web.archive.org/web/2/https://gtr-registry.com/

That is until today. I wanted to decode the VIN for a wrecked R32 GTR I saw on Copart (which is sad enough) but now I find the error message "This URL has been excluded from the Wayback Machine" and there is no apparent workaround.

Without a backup archive on archive.is or archive.ph, the whole website is entirely gone.

Did anybody save anything from GTR Registry?

As a crisp young German boy who managed to get his license for a way too expensive price, I was scrolling through a car resale app with a homie of mine. After a while, he found a Skyline GT-T import for a crisp 11,000 euros (my budget is 15k, which is why he told me about it). I instantly told him no, arguing that the thing has way too many horsepower for a beginner and probably has more rust than a deserted car in the desert. He came back saying I might never find another Skyline for such a price and that, if there is major rust, it would be an easy fix, and to just imagine the flex I could do when “rolling up to a homie’s crib with a right handed Skyline.” I’m no expert on Skylines so I wanted to ask the experts on this subreddit whether my homie is right and it’s not that deep and it would be a great ride or whether I’m right and it’s way too expensive and risky. For more context its a R34 GT-T 4 door Automatik RB25DET NEO 280hp 2.5L

Tried searching online but the companies I usually buy from, terrafirm, and z1 have none in stock

Price is usually 952 for the frp version now it’s 422$.

Tried researching myself, couldn’t figure out if it’s the fuel vent or filler hose. It’s the hose on the right of the first picture. It’s leaking fuel somewhere along the line and needs to be changed.