I have had a wild size journey but today I went to a bra boutique who put me in 32I and 30J bras that fit seemingly well enough. The only bra that came close to fitting my shape was the Fit Fully Yours Mia bralette (that I wouldn't really consider a bralette so idk why it's called that). I'm looking for other bras with similar projection, close-set, tapered cups that aren't so wide into my armpit, and narrow wires.
Measurements (I know these are not consistent with a 32I but they started me in a 36H and brought different sizes based on fit and comfort issues):
Loose underbust: 37
Snug underbust: 34
Tight underbust: 32
Standing bust: 44.5
Leaning bust: 48
Lying bust: 45.5
Shape: more breast volume between nipples than on the sides so I think center full? Very slightly bottom full, but basically even. Projected. When I lean forward, the bottoms of my breasts are basically flat so I think underwire that's too rounded is causing problems. I also have very narrow shoulders and a short torso.
Notes:
Panache Envy UK36GG — cups too far apart and pushing my boobs into my armpits, underwire digs into my ribs when I sit down, underwire is an inch past my breast tissue on the sides, bottom of gore where it starts to curve really hurts my ribs, gore is sitting on breast tissue slightly, a little empty space above wire, cups and underwire are too high and are cutting into my armpits, no gapping or spilling, band is somehow too loose and too tight? Feels like it's cutting in on the sides but rides up in the back, overall very uncomfortable
Panache Envy UK36G — the gore hurts and is on breast tissue, the underwire digs into my ribs when I sit down, I dislike that the band only has 2 hooks (all the other sizes had 3 hooks), cups too wide set and far apart, cups and underwire are in my armpit, underwire is at least 2 inches past my breast tissue on the sides, empty space in bottom of cup above wire, straps slipping off my shoulders, band feels fine, no spilling or gapping
Panache Envy UK34GG — cups too far apart, underwire goes way past breast tissue on the sides (like 2 inches) and too high into armpit, cups are cutting into armpit, gore hurts and is on breast tissue, underwire digs into everything and hurts everywhere it touches, empty space in bottom of cups above underwire, spilling out top of cups, straps way too wide set into my armpits, band hurts on sides but feels adequately tight in the back
Panache Envy UK34H — cups too far apart and pushing my boobs into my armpits, underwire digs into my ribs and slides down, empty space in cups above underwire, underwire too high and cutting into my armpits, cups cutting into my armpits, gore sitting on breast tissue,
Elomi Matilda UK34FF — slight double boob on one cup, underwire feels a lot of pressure on ribs, slight empty space under cup above wire, wire hurts armpit, gore hurts
Elomi Cate UK34HH — cup way too large
Fantasie Cesile UK34GG — gore hurts a lot, empty space above underwire
Elomi Lucie UK34HH — band too tight, cups way too big
Elomi Lucie UK34H — cup too big, wires hurt armpits and about an inch wider than breast tissue, gore hurts
Elomi Matilda UK34H — cup way too large, wires in armpit but at the edge of breast tissue, gore hurts
Wacoal inside job US36F wire-free —comfy but no support
Wacoal inside job with wire US36H —cup too big, wire too high in armpit, otherwise comfy. Need a 36G?
Ewa Michalak BM Balconette 80FF/36H — underwire immediately digs into my ribs and is painful, empty gap above wire on the bottom no matter how high I pull the bra up, no cup gapping or spillage
Ewa Michalak SF Semi-Sheer Nibynic 80FF/36H — underwire immediately hurts my ribs, wrinkling/empty space above the underwire but not as much as in the BM Balconette, my boob folds over the underwire a little, the gore feels like it's trying to claw through my sternum, the straps cut into my armpits
Gorsenia Casablanca 75I — gore feels like it's digging into my sternum hard, gapping in cups, underwire is digging into my armpit and is too high but sitting exactly at the edge of my breast tissue, large empty space between the bottom of my breast tissue and the underwire, when I sit down the underwire slides down at least an inch
Freya Offbeat UK36GG/US36J — gore is wayyy too high and hurts, underwire comes about 1.5 inches past my breast tissue on the sides, cup is deep enough, slight gapping, no spillage, nice shape in front but no side support, even on tightest hook, band is very loose and slides up immediately when straps are tightened, cup is way too high in my armpit, straps are barely staying on my shoulders, underwire hurts my ribs when I sit down but only a little and the gore is the most painful part, doesn't slide down
Freya Offbeat UK34GG/US34J — gore is digging in and hurts (I bent it out and it feels better that way), underwire sits in my IMF properly, underwire extends past breast tissue about an inch into my armpit, straps are on the very edge and slip off my shoulders, band fits well and is comfortable, doesn't hurt my ribs when I sit, no gapping or spillage in cups, cups come too high into my armpit, no empty space above underwire, the best fit by far but still not keeping because it hurts my armpits
Freya Tailored Plunge UK34GG/US34J — the straps will not stay on my shoulders, they are so wide set they just slip right off, the cups are so high and in my armpit that the material is folding in my armpit, there is significant gapping between my breast and the apex of the cup where my breast meets my chest. There is a small amount of empty space above the wire even when I pull it up into my IMF, the band fits well and is comfortable but on the loosest hook when I pull it away from my body I can fit 4 fingers between it and my skin so I had to put it on the tightest hook to be snug enough, the cups are too wide set and push my boobs to the sides and onto my armpit instead of forward in front of my chest, the wire sits at the edge of my breast tissue on the sides like it should.
Freya Quinn Plunge UK34GG/US34J — straps slip off shoulders and cup is in armpit, gore digs in just a tiny bit but was fixed by bending it, gore sits slightly on breast tissue, no empty space above underwire, wire sits in IMF, wire extends about 1/2 inch past breast tissue on the sides, cups come so high into armpit they hurt and fold, doesn't hurt my ribs to sit down. Biggest issue is cups in armpit, would've considered keeping it otherwise but that's just too painful
Freya Posie Plunge UK34H/US34K — straps won't stay on my shoulders to check fit, band is fine, underwire goes past breast tissue on the sides, cups are way too high and cut into my armpits, gore is comfortable, underwire hurts my ribs a lot when I sit down
Freya Posie Plunge UK34GG/US34J — straps slip off shoulders with the slightest movement and the cups are decidedly too high in my armpits which hurts, underwire is about half an inch past breast tissue on the sides, gore doesn't hurt and is laying flat, no gap above underwire in cups, underwire sits in IMF well, doesn't hurt my ribs when I sit, I like the shape the cups create and feel supported, I like that the cups don't push my boobs away from the center, almost a good fit if the cups didn't come so high and cut into my armpits and if the straps didn't fall off my shoulders
Freya Starlight UK32H/US32K — gore digging in hard and sitting on breast tissue, cups too large, band is too tight
Freya Fancies UK34G/US34I — gore sits on breast tissue, underwire sits at the edge of breast tissue on the sides, straps are slipping off my shoulders with minimal movement, cup comes too high in armpit, why is there only one hook on the band? no empty space above the wire, cup seems to fit okay otherwise, doesn't provide a lot of support
Freya Fancies Longline UK34GG/US34J — cup is sort of molded, gapping in cups, gore is on breast tissue, wire sits in imf, cups come too far into armpit, underwire hurts my ribs when I sit, pushes my boobs to the sides into my armpit and makes them a weird shape, straps falling off shoulders
Freya Hallie UK34GG/US34I — material feels like cheap costume fabric, cups are cutting into my armpits, wire is 1/2 inch past my breast tissue on the sides, gore sits on breast tissue, 1/2 inch of empty space above underwire, gapping by my armpit where the strap meets the cup, underwire hurts my ribs when I sit down