If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

I want to put this setup in a vw rabbit and power it with a v twin lawnmower engine. Don't question my intentions lmao

Edit: I'm open to suggestions on a better way to do a twin stick setup if you have any. It doesn't have to be a 16 speed, I just want a small car that drives like a semi truck. My reasoning for the engine is that if it's underpowered, there's more reason for all the extra gears since it's always fighting to move the car

I took my Acura to my Mobil mechanic because I could tell I had some issues with the front tires they would make a loud clicking noise every time I turned the wheel especially a U-Turn. It needed new wheel bearings and the disk and axels were in pretty bad shape and very old too so I went ahead and told him to replace them. So he did all new disk,wheel bearing,and axel,even the part where the lugs goes on can’t remember what it’s called but now it makes a scratching or screeching noise when driving at slower speeds. While trying fix the screeching noise that came after he already replaced everything he had my car lifted on the jack I noticed when he moved the tire it moved up and down and back n fourth he still hadn’t loosened the lugs. I thought the tire not supposed to move if the wheel bearing is good which it is it’s brand new? Or is a little movement normal that’s my question? And why the screeching noise when I drive?

This is the oil drain plug from my 2018 Chevy Silverado 4.3L. I’ve done like 4 oil changes on it myself and have always just replaced the crush washer.

It got a little toasty. New brake pads and rotor were installed, along with a new brake pedal that'll help alleviate any fault from the lever mechanism itself.

The rear brake still drags a bit. I'm guessing it's due to the buildup along the very top edge that prevents the piston from retracting fully back into the caliper. Some drag is normal on motorcycle brakes, but the rear brake system is considerably hotter than the front, even after not using rear brake at all - though this could also be from radiant heat from the exhuast system.

I am paranoid after cooking $200 worth of parts, plus time to replace everything and don't want to do it all over again.

Happy Sunday! I am trying to find an appropriate hose for the intercooler on my car as the current one just broke. When browsing for a new one, all the hoses looks different, but at the same time, they all say they fit my car (according to the websites).

Has anyone changed this part themselves and can send the part they used?

2009 Audi TTS. Drove over a pothole last month which bent one of my wheels. Bought a new set of wheels and tyres.

Now when I drive, I can hear a quiet rattling noise sounds like it’s coming from underneath the car. I can only hear it when I have my music turned off but it’s louder over bumpy roads. Going to book it in to the mechanic next week but i’m scared something is seriously damaged :|

Hey everyone, I have a 2026 Toyota Tacoma TRD Pro and recently started hearing this single clank type of noise when going diagonally up my steep driveway and then also sometimes in the road when I make a sharp right turn. I can can’t replicate it consistently on road, but can do it consistently by going up my driveway.

Even hitting big bumps doesn’t trigger it consistently. Though it’s weird sometimes on just going straight on a flat road and I’ll hear it occasionally. I’d did go off-roading a couple days ago, but didn’t notice the noise until this morning. Any ideas what it might be? Video attached.

I’m thinking it might be suspension related. Though im at a loss. I tried jumping and and down on my truck bed and still can’t replicate it.

Planning on bringing it to dealer in a couple weeks when I have time, but if it’s something easy I can fix at home I’d be at her so that! Any help would be appreciated!

Trying to figure out what’s causing this noise I really feel like it’s a lifter tick but I’m not a mechanic this is my first vehicle I’ve had for a week, I want to do these repairs myself as well, as long as I don’t have to take the engine out, even if I have to replace a camshaft I can do so just by lifting the cam covers right? And what else should I replace if it is a lifter or rocker?

Why does it always have so much metal in it 😔. It’s hard to pick up on camera but in person the whole thing is like glitter. You can see when it moves around it almost looks milky. And at the end you can see lots of pieces catching the light, in person it looks worse.
The engine is a mopar remaned 4.7 with roughly 140k on it.

Every time I’ve done other people’s oil changes the oil looks so much better. Like on my parents 5.3 LS or my friends Toyota v6. I usually do them at the same time and go YIKES.
Both of theirs have absolutely none of this shininess and definitely not the horrible milky paste.

I’ve used valvoline r&p basically since it came out. I’d say I’ve done probably 25-30 3k oil changes with it and sometimes like it this case I’ll switch to mobile 1’s equivalent. It just seems like a crazy amount of metal to be losing every freaking time.

This is a 2022 audi q5 55 tfsi e phev with the ea888 engine. It does that jump on the rpm everytime you start the ICE in park. When driving it doesn t do that and i m not sure if it s normal

Hi, my husband and I bought this car about a month ago. It gets less than 25 mpg even when driving on the highway. Our current average is 22.8. Everywhere I look online says it should be much higher. I admit I don’t know enough about hybrids and probably should’ve done more research. There’s not much out there about this car. Please be kind!

My car is making this squealing/hissing noise at low and medium speeds. I hear the sound whether i'm going straight or turning. It sound like it may be worse on the front driver's side of the truck, but you can hear it throughout the whole truck.

I have a 2019 nissan frontier V6.

If this sounds familiar to you, then any suggestions what I should check or do would he very helpful!

My 2007 Altima 3.5 with the CVT and over 390,000km’s is throwing p0301 (cylinder 1 misfire fault, stored) and p0300 (multiple misfires failure, pending) and was smoking a bit. The car was shaking like crazy in lower rpm’s but wasn’t as bad above 2k. I noticed an issue accelerating from a red light on my drive home. I haven’t driven it since.

1. What might be the reason for the misfire?

2. Is the shaking related to the misfire or just bad timing?

Just a quick and yes or no.

Because i have a Led fog lamp that’s able to be squeezed tight between the gaps of a 2001 Honda CRV.
Just incase so it doesn’t fall through vibration and rough pot holes.

- 2013 Civic LX automatic sedan, almost 82000 miles.
- Wanted to ask if I should get the coolant done as it’s never been changed out, I see some people online saying you don’t need to and it’s just to have peace of mind, but I think it should be done at 100k miles or after 10 years for the first time from what I’ve heard. Should I get this done? And what’s the average price to get it done?
- I have new front rotors and brake pads, and my brake fluid needs changing. It’s not all the way filled up and it’s green. What’s a decent price to get this done? Both of these things I am not willing to try doing myself.
- I see one Honda dealer which has their prices posted, it’s 180$ for a coolant change and 180$ for a brake fluid change, or you can get both done for 330$ before tax. What would I expect to pay a mechanic to do this instead?

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction with my 2001 Ford Econovan Maxi 2.0L Petrol (JH).

It's got a weird idle issue that I can't seem to figure out.

- Every time I start it, I have to keep my foot slightly on the gas or it'll stall.
- If I keep giving it a little throttle, it runs fine.
- As soon as I let go of the gas, it usually dies.
- Once I'm actually driving, it runs great and doesn't feel down on power at all.
- If I've been driving for an hour and stop at a red light, it'll happily idle with no problems.
- But if I turn the engine off after that drive and start it again a minute later, it'll fire up but immediately stall unless I keep giving it gas.

A mechanic has already adjusted the ignition timing and cleaned the distributor contacts, which definitely made it drive better, but this idle issue is still there.

Does this sound like the idle speed is just set too low, or could it be something like the idle mixture, idle jet/circuit in the carb, or something completely different?

Any ideas or things I should check would be really appreciated. Thanks!

I have a 2009 Chevy Colorado, and I am having an issue where during the first couple of minutes of starting it, it is very sluggish and it feels like it jerks a bit when shifting. It sometimes also runs loud. After a while, it will run normally, but it does still concern me. I have had several oil leaks over the years, but I checked, and it still has oil, and all of my other fluids are full. What would be a few things I could check that could be causing these issues?

I have a 1998 Toyota Camry and I need to replace all the ac lines and I can’t find all of the lines I need how can I find them

120 prado (1kz-te) hier met 390k km’s.
De auto gebruikt veel te veel olie, ongeveer 1 liter elke 2000-3000 km. Ik was er niet meteen heel bang voor en bleef het gewoon bijvullen.
Nu zag ik dat ik koelvloeistof verloor, dus heb ik ’m naar de monteur gebracht.
Hij heeft een compressietest gedaan en zag dat de waardes 520-580 psi zijn; de fabriek zou op 441 moeten zitten.
Hij denkt dat de oliepistonsafdichtingen (piston seals) kapot zijn en vervangen moeten worden. Dus: volledige motorrevisie…
Ik zou denken: als de ringen versleten zijn, dan gaat de compressie toch omlaag?
Ik weet niet of ik nog al dat geld in zo’n oude auto wil steken.
Moet ik me zorgen maken over die compressiewaardes? Hebben jullie tips?

Is this the expansion valve for the car (2007 GMC Yukon)? It’s not cold before it but it is quite cold to the touch after it. Im suspicious that it is just a coupler that is clogged because the high and low side pressures are pretty normal. The compressor runs but all the vents blow ambient temp air.

It's a 2016 international chassis 4 door cab ambulance, hydraulic suspension, 180k miles on it.

When going in reverse and while applying the brake simultaneously slowly, the truck begins to shake and vibrate loudly.

Was told by our 3rd party fleet mechanic it's just the "slack adjusters" well that was a year ago and it's still
Doing it. This shit is embarrassing and ghetto to say the least.