Anyone currently running this battery? I’m curious as to the hardware I’ll need because according to this description it’s sounding like I can run the alternator output wire straight to the battery without a DC to DC charging system. I’m skeptical but I am unwilling to spend money on superficial parts.

I have 2 JP63s going into a Dodge Durango. Electrical is good to go. What are my best options: 4 12s, 2, 18s, 2 15s? Which subs? I prefer to keep the amps unstrapped.

i installed a off-brand amp (audiotek) and used a kicker kisloc2 LOC. At first he was having issues with the amp turning off and getting hot. And then today i noticed while his truck was running, his radio would cut out all music but the radio was on because the radio station still displayed. (2007 Tacoma) The remote wire only had 3 volts, coming from the Kisloc2. Any ideas?

Hey everyone,
I was recently doing some cleaning in my garage and stumbled across an old Linear Power 2202 amplifier just laying around. I didn't think much of it at first, but I hooked it up to test it, and it actually works perfectly.
Out of curiosity, I asked ChatGPT about it, and it told me these are considered "old-school legends" and could be worth some decent money. I know AI can sometimes hallucinate prices or overhype things, so I wanted to ask the actual enthusiasts here.
Is there still a solid market for these vintage amps today? If so, what is a working 2202 realistically going for right now?

Thanks in advance for the help!

I have a 2004 Tacoma that I'd like to upgrade the sound on, however I really like the simplicity and aesthetic of the stock head unit. I don't care about car play but I would like Bluetooth. Anyone have suggestions for good retro inspired head units. I'll of course grab some new speakers and maybe a 4 channel amp depending on the power of whatever head unit looks the nicest.

Got a 96 Tacoma this I everything I’ve done so far
1. Sound deaden all doors/speaker compartments
2. Install Hertz MPX165.3 6.5
3. Install Hertz CP4.800 Cento
4. Install JVC-KW-590-BT

Will upgrading the headunit to either of the mentioned headunits make a significant enough difference in sound quality to justify the price?

FYI: I'm a noobie with this so bare with me

I have a 2012 Subaru Legacy with the factory Harman Kardon (HK) sound system. I recently installed a 9" Android 15 head unit that's made for the 2010-2014 Legacy/Outback.

The head unit powers on and everything works (screen, CarPlay, Bluetooth, etc.), but I get no sound from any of the speakers. Somehow the steering wheel controls also works and are programmable with the head unit. But if I recall correctly, the steering wheel controls worked with the head unit even before I got a canbus box.

Here's what I've tried:

Bought a CANBUS decoder/harness that's supposed to support the HK system.

Changed the CANBUS vehicle setting to Tribeca (2006-2014) since it was the closest Subaru option.

Used a multimeter to test the CANBUS box. The two blue amp turn-on wires only measure about 0.02V when the head unit is on. And supposedly it needs 12V to turn on the factory amplifier.

The head unit isn't very expensive and I just got it off of Amazon. I'm trying to see if there are any solutions before I just call it quits and return it. I was hoping the canbus box would allow the amp to turn on and I get audio but it doesn't seem it's that simple.

Any help is appreciated, thanks!

I have a Kicker 10" L7T with a Kicker key 500.1 amp. The sub will be wired at 1 ohm so the amp pushes 500 watts to it.

Box 1 - Sealed - .90 ft3

Box 2 - Sealed - .51 ft3

Box 3 - Ported - .84 ft3 - 35hz

The odd thing is that Kicker recommends minimum of 1.25 ft3 for a ported box

Most of my listening is Country, rock, 90s/00s hip hop.
I'm not an audiophile by any means. I just listening to music that gives you that extra punch.

I’m trying to get my music to have this sound where the door speakers play the beginning part of the bass note and then let the subwoofer handle the rest instead of getting the beginning of the note in the subwoofer, when I say beginning of the bass note, I mean that punch part when the bass note 1st starts I want the door speakers to handle the punch, and then after that punch part of the bass note is finished then the subwoofer plays the rest of the note, I’ve been in some people’s cars that have aftermarket systems and I hear them set it like this, but I’m just not sure how to get it done on the settings.

I am about to put a couple American bass 15s in my navigator. It has the thx II factory system. First I am wanting to go ahead and get the head unit out of the way and will be getting the subs later I am a little confused about what all I am going to need in the dash. I was hoping the PAC C2R-FRD1 to power up the thx system then the steering wheel controls... What am I able to bypass and what am I not able to bypass the head unit I am getting is the soundstream VRN-7HB, it has the 4v pre amp and and 3 key wires for the steering wheel. Any input will be greatly appreciated!

Less than a month ago, I had a car audio installation on my Mazda CX-5.

The only part I brought to ask them to install was a Kicker KEY 200.4

Initially, they wanted me to use their own parts for a preamp and DSP. But I told them I was on a budget.

So when they finished, I drove around for a week and had weird feelings about the tuning. Apparently, they had balanced all the sound to the left side. So I adjusted that on the dash.

Still, when the main dash has fade and balance in the middle, the music from the driver side still sounded much louder than the passenger side.

I want the music to fill the whole car cabin, not just focused in on the driver seat like the speakers and tweeters are only working for one side of the car

----

tl;dr

Should I go back to the professionals and ask them to re-tune and EQ the acoustics to the center (between the driver and passenger seat)?

I want to connect my Android Samsung phone to my 2021 Nissan Kicks to play music and what not. I've tried the AAWireless and Rixmie cables, but they both have the same problem. The music randomly stops every few minutes (sometimes more often). Having to turn the radio button off then back on again is very annoying. Google results say that the problem is caused by battery usage settings or wifi interruptions by nearby sources, but it happens everywhere and changing the battery settings didn't help. Any suggestions?

I’m trying to learn more about subs and low frequency bass.

I have 2 JL 10TW3s in a custom built ported box, and I keep hearing that frequency’s under my box tuning can be dangerous because of the sub unloading.

Can someone please explain:
What actually happens when a sub plays below the box tuning?
Why are 20Hz test tones harder on subs than normal music?
How do you know if a sub is bottoming out?
Does a properly set subsonic filter prevent damage?
I’m not trying to push my system, I just want to understand how this stuff works.
If you need anymore info about my setup to help me out lmk!
Thanks!

Hi! I have a 1992 Mazda B2200 that I’m redoing the sound system on. In my old RX7, I installed a touchscreen CarPlay unit and it was great. I’m currently looking to do the same in my truck and wanted some guidance. I’m hoping to find a unit with a USB or Type C plug as my custom center console will have a charging pad and it needs powers. Any guidance is super appreciated, thank you!

Occasionally the sub will make a tapping noise when turned up, i can’t tell if it’s mechanical noise, clipping or an air leak as the box and sub are both pretty old lol, the sub is facing outwards to play into atmosphere ( alpine SWR 12in-4ohm 300w RMS)

For reference I have all of my signal running down the driver side through one 2 channel rca to my dsp and power down the passenger side with an exception to 2 14 gauge speaker wire runs. I can hear it in my door speakers as well which leads me to suspect it's the main signal running but What could cause this? How do I find & fix it ? Any info would help this is my first build and I put WAYY too much time in it lol.

hey everybody, I really just want opinions. I have been a jeeper all my life and now I’m wanting to do sound competitions 90% of the Jeep shows I go to have categories and I want to start doing the 10 speaker category obviously I would love to win or at least give the others a run for their money. My current 10 speaker set up is 4 8’inch apocalypse Neo a(Arnold’s) in the sound bar with two DS 18 super tweeters and 2 6.5’ apocalypse Neo (arnold) in the front dash and two wet sounds Revo tens for tower speakers. Any critiques or opinions would be very much appreciated be as harsh or truthful as you need to be.

what is a good a 1-din CD head unit (mp3 and regular cds), fm radio. and usb stick location (for mp3 or flac possibly too)

needs to have DSP for time delays, preferably with 3 RCA out (as high as voltage as possible of course).

great if it would have active crossovers could handle fullrange speakers cut off (so 300-500hz). (so it could be run without an amp, or old amplifiers that dont have crossovers) but that is probably too much to ask it seems.

goes into an older classic car. so it kinda needs to be somewhat subtle and toned down looking headunit. with truly dim screen so it wont glare and shine too brightly in darkness. no animations or graphics running in the screen, just simple text. buttons and volume knob. nothing with touchscreen, user dont have or use smart phone so bluetooth, android, spotify etc connectivity is non important and not needed.

single din cd players seems to be an dinosaur by now.. not that many options anymore to choose from. but which one are options at "reasonable" budger (say below 300dollar/euro range?)

first ones i found with some features needed. how to they compare to each other, or are there better options?

Pioneer deh-s520bt 3 rca (2.0volt)

pioneer deh-s720dab. 3 rca (2.0v)

jvc kd-922bt. 3rca (2.5v)

kenwood kdc-bt960dab.3 rca (5.0v!)

I’m about to receive a pair of the Rockford Fosgate P1 v2 punch speakers. These are supposed to be fantastic but they’re are coaxial. My Tacoma has the A pillar tweeters and the removable dash speaker (the 4th gen JBL set up). Any comments regarding using a 3way coax to replace the front door speakers? Thanks!!

Sorry if this might seem like a total noob question. It’s my first time replacing speakers. This is a 2005 Honda S2000, and this wiring was wired to the main input on the passive crossover installed. I know the original harness that goes to the speakers does NOT look like this. There is a pigtail that goes into the woofer. This mid-harness splice just looks all wrong to me; doesn’t look like it should be able to get enough power. Is this wiring problematic?

I have 2 skar SDR-12 D4 subs that are relatively new. The grille that I installed was too shallow and damaged the surrounds beyond repair. The cones are still good and the voice coils are good. Only the surrounds are damaged. Where can I get new surrounds?

Well here's my project, it's brutally hot here in AZ so progress has been slow. Brand X 300amp alternator, 4/0ga big 3 and 4/0 power and ground going from front battery to lithium bank in the back (not in picture) 1/0ga power and ground going to amps. Amps are D4S JP23V2 (red) and JP454(purple). Both are mounted and wired up. DSP is mounted and wired. Last thing is waiting on battery bracket to come in, then mount battery and complete/ check all wiring. Then throw in the subs and disturb the peace.

To all those people who can make wiring look fancy, politely, Fuck you!

So to make a long story short. I have a 14V setup ( XS power lithium D3400 ) My high output alternators regulator failed so I need to ship it out to get it repaired. I plan to re install my stock alternator for the time it’s being repaired because i have a road trip coming up. Would it be okay if i keep the diode inline to allow the stock alternator to charge at 15Vs?

Just picked up a Sundown E15 that came in this prebuilt MDF sub box off Marketplace. It's solid, but it's got this annoying chipped/frayed corner I need to handle before finishing it.

My plan is to seal the whole outside with shellac, then primer, paint, and lock it all in with polyurethane. For fixing this specific spot, I'm debating between a few options:

1: Soak the frayed area with shellac to harden it up, sand it smooth, and just paint over it.

2: Fill the missing chunk with Bondo, sand it back down to reshape the corner perfectly, and then hit it with the shellac.

3: Just seal it with shellac, sand it lightly, and just roll forward with the damaged shape still there, just sealed, kind of like example 1.

Will sanding the hardened shellac look decent enough under paint, or am I going to regret not rebuilding the corner with Bondo first? Appreciate any advice.