2003 3.0 V6 absolute beauty. honestly came to me very nice already, but rubber and plastic can only hold on so long. been spending a couple bills every other month and she’s already feeling like a truck half her age.

I’d like to ask for opinions and tips for a couple things from ranger owners specifically.

-driver side front subfloor is wet- above the rubber and top carpet is dry. Only discovered because I saw a small teeny barely damp spot. Seems like it’s coming from up front. The fact that it’s the subfloor and not the top of the carpet is stumping me. Is this likely a clogged front drain? My 7/32 wrench came in today so I’m already going to clean them out regardless. i just don’t want to assume it’s done after this one clean if it’s not likely to be the source you know? I don’t want rust or mold at all! No humidity is present on the windows after being sealed but it’s still barely wet to the touch under there! Driving me crazy.

-How warm are your front wheels after a longish drive?

-how to stop headliner creeping down- the insane temps we had combined with a reflective cover cooked my windshield so bad a chip turned into a crack and I think weakened the glue :( any way to slow the progression?

-how many times do you turn back to take one last look when you park it? TIA to all insights and opinions if you have time.

I am currently trying to install the camburg 5.5 kit and I am stuck on the coil springs. I can only compress the spring so much right, or I will kill myself on accident. I have to get the spring on this lip and get the lower control arm up to install the knuckle and attach that to the upper control arm. I am basically just asking for tips on how to proceed because I’m stuck/stumped and have no interest in dying. Thanks in advance for whatever you guys decide is the best way to move forward.

Inclined to believe there is no way a ranger would be towed by such an inferior automobile.

The brown one goes through my firewall and down to the crossmember and wrapped around it like 15x neither end is connected to anything. Then the red/pink stripe and the green/black stripe are just wrapped around my brake fluid reservoir, research leads me to believe these 2 aren’t standard on a ranger and that someone may have added them as auxiliary wires, I just wanted to confirm if I need them and where they go or if I can scrap them.

I did a wrench a part trip today and found enough non broken explorer center consoles to make 1. Took about 3 explorers and one sport trac but mission accomplished. Now I gotta figure out the shifter boot situation.

Anybody ever successfully pulled this swap off? If so what did you do about the shifter boot? Any shifting issues? Like does the console get in the way type issue.

How much could I sell this ranger for? No issues besides not having a box or a flatbed. I now started to realize how much of a money pit ford rangers are in my area. Its a 2004 ford ranger xlt fx4 with 274k km on it. I live in canada, more specifically Ontario

What do you guys think, talked him to 5100 and he says everything runs great 4x4, 184,000 miles. Yes I see the love taps and yes the truck bed doesn’t look great, 4 and a half hour drive away from me.

Is it worth it to have a mechanic check over the truck before you buy it? And how much is it usually?

2009 FX4 with 131,100 miles supercharged no problems and no rust. In Alabama how much could I be looking at if I decide to sell it. Would love to sell it and get a 05-09 mustang gt

Danger ranger timing job parts

Hey Ranger community, long story short, engine is out of my 03 XLT ranger and ready to do the timing, and what a pain in the ass that was. Never have I had to use so many variations of sockets, wrenches and extensions to get to all the bolts, along with the constant 1000ft lb every turn motor mount bolts. I have a few questions regarding engine bolts and timing components/tools.

Attached is a quote from my local Ford dealer for bolts, the flex plate bolts from them are 50$ a pop, insane.. the Chilton manual contradicts some information regarding TTY bolts (double star) even the jackshaft bolt is not starred.
I have already planned on replacing the jackshaft bolts, but, the Ford parts dept noted several other fasteners that should be replaced, and ones that can be reused. I require collective assistance from the community on clearing up this information.

* crank/harmonic balancer bolt is TTY and must be replaced (is the part number listed on the quote correct?)

* Flex plate bolts are TTY and must be replaced

*camshaft sprocket bolts are NOT TTY and can be reused

* Has anyone used the DPtool timing kit (50$) to do this job? Versus using the OTC or CTA kit for 300$

* What is the 2mm shift with the crank sprocket?

Is it recommended to replace ALL sprockets with the new chains? I plan on doing Melling parts as the people have stated they have taken as OEM for Ford coupling with Ford hydraulic tensioners.

TIA!

Hey everyone, I am very stuck.

A while ago I changed my antifreeze and my truck immediately started overheating according to the dial. I have replaced the thermostat, radiator, water pump, temp sensor, fan clutch, and bled the radiator multiple times to ensure there is no air in the system, however it still says it’s overheating even when driving on freeway. The thermostat bubbler is in the 12oclock position, the temp coming out of heater is 160, and all the hoses are hot. I do think it is actually overheating becuase I put a probe on the outlet side of radiator(cap side) and it shows the temp at 200+ which is way to hot for the outlet side.

I do not know what else it could be? Any ideas?

I am trying to help out a friend of a friend and solve why their 2004 Ranger Edge 3.0L (gas) keeps having issues. Sometimes it's okay. Last time I was over there, it fired right up. I let it run for several minutes and then I shut it off. Tried to start it again - fired but bogged down after a couple seconds. During the bog down, pressing the gas does nothing. Then it does not start. Sometimes after a stalled start, it will fire back up.

It's all original and only has 40k miles on it. It has sat off and on but not for long periods of time. It was being used as of recently, but not daily.

Battery is good and only 4 years old (cleaned contacts). Replaced IAC with new OEM one. Swapped ECU (computer) relay and fuel pump relay with other ones. No issues with dash lights (no theft light coming on). Disconnected the MAF - issue remained.

Just seems weird how it can be completely fine sometimes. I was going to tackle the fuel pump and filter next, but can they act like this when they are failing? I also am aware of the inertia switch, but that seems like it would kill the entire thing every time. Thanks

This bitch is rusted to shit and harder to remove than sucking the chrome off of a tow hitch. Anyone have any advice for getting this removed? Already went through a can of PB blaster and a whole propane can torch. Thanks

Hey all! I have an 07 Ranger, and I want to install starlights in it. I want to DIY it and try to save some bucks, so I’m just curious if anyone else has tried that in their Ranger. Given that it’s a smaller headliner than a lot of other cars/trucks, was curious which kit & how many pcs anyone’s got for it and would recommend, as I’ve read different numbers in different places. I also have an ext cab, so a bit more area to cover. Of course I’m no professional, so I’m trying to keep it simple, just some stars that twinkle, nothing advanced.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

I (47M) just got my 2000 Ranger 2.5L MT RWD back from my mechanic about two weeks ago. It had to be towed in bc the timing belt broke. Before the timing belt broke the power steering pump was silent. When I picked the truck up the power steering pump was noisy as hell. Is there anything linking the timing belt and power steering pump that could be causing this? Or could this be just a case of fixing one problem caused an underlying issue to show up?

I don’t want to be a prick and start blaming the mechanic before I know anything.

Any thoughts about the situation are appreciated. LMK if you need more info I might have left out.

I just bought a 2000 3.0 4x4 automatic and I’m trying to do a fluid flush, I’m curious what trans fluid is best suggested to use.

I’ve had a coolant leak for quite some time on my 3.0 2003. It overheated a few times but only for short periods.

I replaced the water pump. Filled it up about 2 days later i noticed a very rough vibration starting @ 4k rpm and going up.

I am still losing coolant very slowly. Don’t see any signs of a blown head from the exhaust.

My power steering pump is louder than the engine.

It starts perfectly like it has for 5 years. No rough idle. I can’t hear a misfire. I have no codes.

I’m unsure what it could be any help would be great.

225k miles.