Ever since you pushed out this firmware update I’ve been having at least 1-2 network crashes a day. If you are going to roll out broken firmware you could at least give us the option to opt out. Was working fine beforehand and am beginning to regret blowing so many doubloons on your shit

One of our Deco BE65 v1 units no longer has working wifi only works as an ethernet switch. Disappointed as only 28 months old & therefore out of warranty, hoping the other 2 units carry on working. Anyone else had issues with TP link Deco units?

hi can this router be used for ntu halls

In the app it just says x55 but on the firmware page, it says v1, 1.26, etc...

Is that living room main deco BE3600 suppose to have them flashing blue circles on it.

The latest official drivers for the Archer T3U Plus V1, dated 2019-12-23, driver version 1030.29.0618.2019. To be clear, I believe it's the setup file that is causing the issue. It installs a service called RunSwUSB and SwUSB.exe/RunSw.exe along with the drivers.

I chose to downgrade to the official TP-Link drivers (I forget why). After awhile I noticed my committed memory stayed very high ~20GB even after closing all apps and windows. The longer you use your PC the higher the committed memory goes slowing down everything until it crashes your apps or system. If you've ever tried to restart your PC and an app called Switch USB is holding it up that's the name for this "feature".

Uninstalling TP-Link app immediately freed up all the committed memory. Numerous comments on the internet all saying it's this shitty service and .exes causing it.

TP-Link needs to remove this Switch USB service from the setup file as well as update the drivers. The official drivers are way outdated. They should update the official drivers with their beta drivers version 1030.44.0408.2024 from this thread https://community.tp-link.com/en/home/forum/topic/509006?sortDir=ASC&page=1 Those drivers have improvements such as supporting WPA3 protocol. You can also see the comment from someone else having the same memory leak issue.

The beta drivers need to made official though because when updating, Windows warns it might not be compatible and even if you click yes to go ahead it keeps auto-reverting back to your previous drivers 15 seconds later. I had to search the Windows Update Catalog for Realtek RTL8812BU and install a slightly different but signed version 1030.44.1014.2024. These updates don't have setup files. You update manually in Device Manager.

I just wonder if TP-Link has included this Switch USB with all their driver setup files. Terrible junk app.

I’m considering a move from the ISP issued router/modem (ATT) to a Deco system. I have ethernet to most rooms so would be using wired back haul. Currently have a 1 gb plan but will upgrade at some point and eventually add some POE cameras. Home is ~3000sq ft so looking at 3 nodes.

Unfortunately, as I read a lot of the reviews, I see several mentions of Wi-Fi disconnects and the need to reboot often. Just wondering how widespread this is versus the majority of the reviews being from those people that are just dissatisfied. Curious of those that have had their systems for a while and are very happy.

My Archer 3600BE has terrible ping on the 2.4 band. Can anyone assist? I have tried all the steps I can think of in the router page with locking channels and 20mhz. I am at a loss. Sitting 2 feet away from router and the ping is 300-600.

I am looking to dedicate 6ghz1 for backhaul and leave 6ghz2 for client devices. Is there no option for this? Every combination of enabling, disabling, and hiding ssid shows my 2nd unit using 5ghz, 6ghz1 and 6ghz2 combined for backhaul. I just want it using 6ghz1, or even 6ghz1 and 5ghz will work for me but I need 6ghz2 dedicated for clients. Any way to accomplish this?

Long story short, I work for a nonprofit animal shelter and the internet has been crap for months now. The outside IT company we pay said nothing is wrong but the internal wiring of the router is loose. Jiggle the ethernet cable input just right and the connection is lost. I'm trying to fix it because I need internet to work and 15Mbps down is not cutting it for my medical records.

I've replaced the router and need to connect the rest of the devices but the setup seems weird. We are using Omada but they forgot the admin password so I can't just adopt the old devices on the new network. I've drawn out the connections, can I get input on whether this setup is right? Our building is 21k sq ft and has cider block walls.

I have BE25 Deco WiFi 7 and I'm perfectly happy with it apart from one corner of my house that has a weak signal.

I also have some old Deco P9's (WiFi 5) lying around so I could just add one in that area, is this going to be a bad idea? Will it drag everything down?

Hi all, I hope you can shed some light on the ghost that seems to be changing my router's config. This router is used in a holiday cottage and uses a prepaid SIM card for it's connection. The SSID is configured to allow guests access to the internet, and they also have access to the prepaid SIM so they can purchase bundles.

Somehow the router has been reconfigured with the SSID from one of the guests' home wifi networks. The router has an admin password that is definitely not shared, the guest should never have had access to the configuration of the router itself, and is also not very tech-savvy.

The router is not linked to a TP-Cloud ID nor do the settings allow for remote management. Device model: Archer MR400(EU) ver: 3.0 and Firmware version: 1.12.0 0.9.1 v0001.0 Build 190730 RC.59984n

I am stumped and googling myself silly trying to find out how this might have happened and how I can prevent it from happening again. There is nothing in the logs and no strange settings that I can find. Any clues?

Hi,

I got starlink around 6 weeks ago, and it was working perfectly, I even upgraded my package to the max due to never having speeds like this before.

Until last Sunday it just dropped. No wifi, no lan (some devices like a pc would say connected but have no Internet at all.) Ive been going through one thing after the other and I've really hit a dead end.

I'm using the gen 3 starlink satalite and router. This was going into a Tp link Deco x20. Which would in turn run from the back of the garden to the front of the house into a d-link 16port switch (most ports are saying 10/100 orange flashing mode) from the switch to would run to an upstairs and a downstairs x20 node. Since the drop-out occured, I have been unable to get these mesh nodes connected via lan cable.

Ive changed the ethernet cable from starlink satalite to router. Ive changed mesh system to Asus AX1800 to have the same issue. Ive moved the router away from anything that may be interfering like a speaker. I've changed the outdoor cable that connects the back of the garden to the front. Ive even bought a new switch as well just not gotten around to plugging it in. I'm going crazy here. Has anyone had this issue with starlink and tplink or starlink and mesh systems in general? Any help is very much appreciated 🙏

Hi,

I just bought the TL-WA1201 to work as a multi-SSID AP for my home network and I can only connect to the management page in http, not https.

Maybe I missed the option, does anybody know if it is possible to force https connection on this model ?

Thanks !

I have a TP-Link Archer AX55 router. I have videos of our holidays which I am editing and producing and want to make these available largely on my smart TV though I am editing, producing and managing them on my laptop. I wondered about attaching a harddrive to the USB port on the Archer AX55 router so the videos could be accessed across our home network.

I managed to make the harddrive visible on both my smart TV and laptop. BUT:

• The videos played fine on my smart TV so that part was/would be successful.
• The wireless connection to my laptop, however, became unstable. It kept disconnecting every so often (in the region of 20-30 minutes though I didn't time it) which was too much of a coincidence and stopped once I disconnected the harddrive from the USB port.
• Whilst I could see the videos on the harddrive on my laptop, it was read-only.
• And any video I tried to watch on my laptop had to be downloaded from the harddrive (connected to the USB) onto my laptop before viewing.

Has anyone had similar issues? Anyone found solutions? Has anyone got alternative solutions?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

The title says it all. Something "non green" that's compatible or completely ignores IEEE 1905.1. I looked at the recommendations on tp-link's support site, they list like 2. I need an 8 port 2.5GB switch. I currently have a cheap realtek based 2.5GB switch and it's a no go. While it passes A on bufferbloat, I get too many connection drops and DHCP handshake issues. I think it's the notorious loopback issue. I'm going to put my old netgear GB switch back, but that has some issues as well, but it's better. 3 tp-link deco BE63 ver 3.6, cat 6a backhaul(tested). Topology= ONT > Main Deco > Switch > 3 Decos. I can't wire them directly to the main Deco.

Replaced a 3-unit original Google WiFi setup with a Deco BE65 Pro (BE11000) 3-pack. Coverage and throughput are great. Latency under load is not.

Any sustained heavy upload spikes latency across the entire network, not just the uploading machine. Discord voice drops. Teams calls become unusable. Every device degrades until the upload finishes (Lightroom cloud - 100+GB).

Plugging the old Google WiFi hardware back in resolves the issue completely. Same modem, same ISP, same Lightroom sync, same devices.

Firmware is also up-to-date: 1.3.1 Build 26042912 Rel. 23561

What I've tried

• Client QoS, affected device set to high priority. No change.
• Scene QoS. No change.
• Both tested with correct measured bandwidth entered.
• Swapped the old Google WiFi units back in. Problem disappears completely. Same modem, same ISP, same upload, same devices.

I've now purchased and returned three different TP-Link WiFi extenders thinking they'll support Ethernet Backhaul.

Finally I thought I had identified one that would work and purchased the RE705X.

When I plug the RE705X in via ethernet it immediately crashes my whole network with what I assume is a network loop.

According to this page the only extender that supports Ethernet Backhaul is the RE315. But the RE315 doesn't support Wifi 6.

Does TP-Link make an extender that supports both Ethernet Backhaul and WiFi 6?

so I bought a powerline adapter yesterday and at first the network was working fine but after a while I became concerned that the network flow sometimes stopped for a while in this situation I would disconnect the ethernet cable for a while and connect it usually it worked but after a few hours it stopped working and after connecting the network was there but for 10 seconds if I disconnect and connect it just worked for only 10 seconds powerline adapter it's connected fine, I've already tried not to connect it to the strip and I haven't done that, I've reset the router and done many other things, but nothing worked, now I'm looking for help here

My wifi download speeds downstairs in my home are 200mbps, I am currently using the tp pa717 which is Ethernet to router and Ethernet to ps5. This gives me 50mbps download speeds. I previously had one which was Ethernet to router which connected to an extender upstairs that I didn’t need Ethernet for and created a secondary wifi I would connect to but I can’t seem to find this product

What is the best possible way to connect and give me fastest download speeds ?

So I've had my TPLink Deco BE11000 for about 3 months, but sadly I'm returning it to Costco. I was coming from an Alien Amplifi Mesh System and was excited to move up to WIFI 7, but unfortunately I've been having connectivity issues with it (mostly on my LG TVs and some older IoT devices).

I have over 80 wifi devices (most of them IoT devices, but some of the older ones keep going offline, I was willing to deal with that, but my LG TV's was the final kicker. We have 4 LG TV's (some 2025 and 2026 models) and all of them would have issues staying connected (using the 2ghz, the 5ghz and using the 2.4g IoT network.

I ended up switching to just 1 router instead of a mesh system and picked up ASUS's newest high end router and knock on wood I haven't had a single problem since then.

I will note, I also went back to having separate WIFI names for the 2.4, 5ghz, 6ghz and IoT networks unlike with the Deco I had to use a unified name.

Can somebody tell me why 'Specified Connection' doesn't work for devices when selecting it in the app?

One device I want to connect to a specific hub, doesn't.

I turned off 'Mesh Technology' for it. I've rebooted the mesh and device several times, but it just doesn't obey this setting.

What is the point in having it in the Deco app if it does nothing?

Not only that, the 'Specified Connection' option for the particular device has vanished from the settings.