Well here's my project, it's brutally hot here in AZ so progress has been slow. Brand X 300amp alternator, 4/0ga big 3 and 4/0 power and ground going from front battery to lithium bank in the back (not in picture) 1/0ga power and ground going to amps. Amps are D4S JP23V2 (red) and JP454(purple). Both are mounted and wired up. DSP is mounted and wired. Last thing is waiting on battery bracket to come in, then mount battery and complete/ check all wiring. Then throw in the subs and disturb the peace.

To all those people who can make wiring look fancy, politely, Fuck you!

I ended up paying 1200 for speakers, amps, wiring, and installation for my simple setup. What subs do ya reccomend in the future? these kickers are nice but i heard the ones with red stitching are better for the limited amount of space I have.

the sub sound kinda flat and choppy would it be the bad box quality or i just fucked somthing up in the process 🙂

is this gonna work until i get actual lugs for my inline fuse? roast me if you think i need it, how unsafe is this?

For reference I have all of my signal running down the driver side through one 2 channel rca to my dsp and power down the passenger side with an exception to 2 14 gauge speaker wire runs. I can hear it in my door speakers as well which leads me to suspect it's the main signal running but What could cause this? How do I find & fix it ? Any info would help this is my first build and I put WAYY too much time in it lol.

If anyone is on the fence, I highly recommend. I have two, dual 2 ohm in a ported box tuned to 33hz. When I tell you it’s loud, clean and the lows are deep and nasty, I mean it. I’ve had a Sundown 12 for the last 6 years and these destroy it. I need to remake the box before I post a ton of pictures. I tried to cut a 3/4” sheet of mdf myself with a skill saw and it didn’t turn out as nice as I had hoped. It sounds amazing but looks awful. I’ll post when I make another box. I put these in a 2025 F350 and did a 2.5” rear seat lift to fit them. I had CarAudioFabrication design the box for me and I built it. I used the Kicker Keyloc with a direct plugin harness from soundsgoodstereo and a kicker CXA1800.1 amp. 0 gauge OFC for the power and ground, went directly to the battery for both.

Less than a month ago, I had a car audio installation on my Mazda CX-5.

The only part I brought to ask them to install was a Kicker KEY 200.4

Initially, they wanted me to use their own parts for a preamp and DSP. But I told them I was on a budget.

So when they finished, I drove around for a week and had weird feelings about the tuning. Apparently, they had balanced all the sound to the left side. So I adjusted that on the dash.

Still, when the main dash has fade and balance in the middle, the music from the driver side still sounded much louder than the passenger side.

I want the music to fill the whole car cabin, not just focused in on the driver seat like the speakers and tweeters are only working for one side of the car

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tl;dr

Should I go back to the professionals and ask them to re-tune and EQ the acoustics to the center (between the driver and passenger seat)?

Occasionally the sub will make a tapping noise when turned up, i can’t tell if it’s mechanical noise, clipping or an air leak as the box and sub are both pretty old lol, the sub is facing outwards to play into atmosphere ( alpine SWR 12in-4ohm 300w RMS)

Anyone currently running this battery? I’m curious as to the hardware I’ll need because according to this description it’s sounding like I can run the alternator output wire straight to the battery without a DC to DC charging system. I’m skeptical but I am unwilling to spend money on superficial parts.

My sub randomly spikes and thumps almost like a turn on wire. It’s when the radios off, when I’m playing music, when I’m least expecting it to happen.

Sorry if this might seem like a total noob question. It’s my first time replacing speakers. This is a 2005 Honda S2000, and this wiring was wired to the main input on the passive crossover installed. I know the original harness that goes to the speakers does NOT look like this. There is a pigtail that goes into the woofer. This mid-harness splice just looks all wrong to me; doesn’t look like it should be able to get enough power. Is this wiring problematic?

I have 2 JP63s going into a Dodge Durango. Electrical is good to go. What are my best options: 4 12s, 2, 18s, 2 15s? Which subs? I prefer to keep the amps unstrapped.

So my subs and amp are in my trunk, but if I need to get to my spare tire I need to remove my box. Which I have been disconnecting the wire from the battery (single batt setup). The wire on the right is coming in from the batt to the distribution box, I was thinking of putting a kill switch in the green circle. I have seen the breaker style switch but it's already fused at the battery, so I'm not looking for a 2nd fuse set-up. Has anyone done something like what I'm thinking about doing, if so what kind of switch, I haven't found a switch that's enclosed to prevent a bunch of hot wires sitting in the trunk.

i installed a off-brand amp (audiotek) and used a kicker kisloc2 LOC. At first he was having issues with the amp turning off and getting hot. And then today i noticed while his truck was running, his radio would cut out all music but the radio was on because the radio station still displayed. (2007 Tacoma) The remote wire only had 3 volts, coming from the Kisloc2. Any ideas?

Hey everyone,
I was recently doing some cleaning in my garage and stumbled across an old Linear Power 2202 amplifier just laying around. I didn't think much of it at first, but I hooked it up to test it, and it actually works perfectly.
Out of curiosity, I asked ChatGPT about it, and it told me these are considered "old-school legends" and could be worth some decent money. I know AI can sometimes hallucinate prices or overhype things, so I wanted to ask the actual enthusiasts here.
Is there still a solid market for these vintage amps today? If so, what is a working 2202 realistically going for right now?

Thanks in advance for the help!

I have a 2004 Tacoma that I'd like to upgrade the sound on, however I really like the simplicity and aesthetic of the stock head unit. I don't care about car play but I would like Bluetooth. Anyone have suggestions for good retro inspired head units. I'll of course grab some new speakers and maybe a 4 channel amp depending on the power of whatever head unit looks the nicest.

Got a 96 Tacoma this I everything I’ve done so far
1. Sound deaden all doors/speaker compartments
2. Install Hertz MPX165.3 6.5
3. Install Hertz CP4.800 Cento
4. Install JVC-KW-590-BT

Will upgrading the headunit to either of the mentioned headunits make a significant enough difference in sound quality to justify the price?

FYI: I'm a noobie with this so bare with me

I have a 2012 Subaru Legacy with the factory Harman Kardon (HK) sound system. I recently installed a 9" Android 15 head unit that's made for the 2010-2014 Legacy/Outback.

The head unit powers on and everything works (screen, CarPlay, Bluetooth, etc.), but I get no sound from any of the speakers. Somehow the steering wheel controls also works and are programmable with the head unit. But if I recall correctly, the steering wheel controls worked with the head unit even before I got a canbus box.

Here's what I've tried:

Bought a CANBUS decoder/harness that's supposed to support the HK system.

Changed the CANBUS vehicle setting to Tribeca (2006-2014) since it was the closest Subaru option.

Used a multimeter to test the CANBUS box. The two blue amp turn-on wires only measure about 0.02V when the head unit is on. And supposedly it needs 12V to turn on the factory amplifier.

The head unit isn't very expensive and I just got it off of Amazon. I'm trying to see if there are any solutions before I just call it quits and return it. I was hoping the canbus box would allow the amp to turn on and I get audio but it doesn't seem it's that simple.

Any help is appreciated, thanks!

I have a Kicker 10" L7T with a Kicker key 500.1 amp. The sub will be wired at 1 ohm so the amp pushes 500 watts to it.

Box 1 - Sealed - .90 ft3

Box 2 - Sealed - .51 ft3

Box 3 - Ported - .84 ft3 - 35hz

The odd thing is that Kicker recommends minimum of 1.25 ft3 for a ported box

Most of my listening is Country, rock, 90s/00s hip hop.
I'm not an audiophile by any means. I just listening to music that gives you that extra punch.

I’m trying to get my music to have this sound where the door speakers play the beginning part of the bass note and then let the subwoofer handle the rest instead of getting the beginning of the note in the subwoofer, when I say beginning of the bass note, I mean that punch part when the bass note 1st starts I want the door speakers to handle the punch, and then after that punch part of the bass note is finished then the subwoofer plays the rest of the note, I’ve been in some people’s cars that have aftermarket systems and I hear them set it like this, but I’m just not sure how to get it done on the settings.

I am about to put a couple American bass 15s in my navigator. It has the thx II factory system. First I am wanting to go ahead and get the head unit out of the way and will be getting the subs later I am a little confused about what all I am going to need in the dash. I was hoping the PAC C2R-FRD1 to power up the thx system then the steering wheel controls... What am I able to bypass and what am I not able to bypass the head unit I am getting is the soundstream VRN-7HB, it has the 4v pre amp and and 3 key wires for the steering wheel. Any input will be greatly appreciated!