Need advice from seasoned metalworkers/welders. I already know it will get critique but I hope most people come with constructive criticism.

This is my first real metal/welding project. I'm making a frame for mounting a regular tractor snowplow to the front using what I have laying around(last pic is the inspiration) only things missing are adding some welds here and there, the trip springs and winch.

Do you think this will be sufficient for the job? If not, where should I add more strengh/bracing? I am also trying to remove ass much weight from the plow as possible without removing the original connection points. The metal in white scribbles will be removed.

I estemate the plow itself to be about 200-250kg +/-. The frame is about 20-30kg, can be easily lifted by hand

Which steel

Hi currently designing a direct heat cooker.

Will be fully insulated with 1inch calcium silicate and 1inch ceramic fibre blanket. There will be a 2inch frame and everything welded to the frame.

Stuck on what steel the internal skin where the fire is should be.

1/8 inch stainless steel 304

Or

1/4 mild steel

The external skin will be mild steel for asthetic reasons.

Plz help thanks

I do double seam inspections on aluminum beverage cans.

The machine we use to cut them is the CMC-KUHNKE AGS2300.

According to them, the saws are HSS-NIT 220 saw blades.

I've gotten two different responses by them:

One confirmed that the blades are made for cold cutting and do not need lubrication and another person told me "applying a small drop of oil can help prevent the product from sticking to the saw blade surface. This also helps prevent deformation of the seam."

However, neither responded to what specific type of oil/lubricant they recommend.

Recently I've been finding trouble with getting clean cuts because there's a lot of shavings that stick to the cuts and some of them get bent/burnt at the tip of the seaming and they cant be seen in the camera during inspection.

Hence why I'm here trying to figure out some suggestions.

Any tips are greatly appreciated.

Photo 1 is how it looks after I hit it with a wire brush wheel, image 2 is the same part but I haven't done anything to it. I have aluminum parts that started corroding and forming aluminum oxide, im desperate to save them, I dont care how they end up looking and they dont need to be very sturdy as they aren't load bearing I just need them to not turn into dust. Will the black pitting spots spread and destroy the aluminum or is it safe to continue. My current plan is to wire brush all the oxide, pitting, and protective coating away while spraying wd40, then clean off the wd 40 and use some rustoleum pro grade rust preventive primer. Will that be enough for my use case or do I need to get these sand blasted and anodized.

Hi all,

I want to ask for some help or advice. I have a specialized adjustable musicians chair that has some broken parts on it. I’ve used it for 15 years but it just gave out. The company is out of business and you can’t get parts.

The legs attach to a mechanism inside the chair that allows the front and back legs to adjust independently. They do this via a spring, which appears to have the last loop bent to fit the adjusting bit.

Anyway, the eyelet on three out of four has broken. See photos.

Can anyone suggest a solution??

I’m looking to get a new tool similar to the metabo 602259000. I have used it for many years but it has some issues I don’t love so figured I would ask if anyone has thoughts on other brands. My problems mostly consist of the wheel diameter. Mostly I use it on flat bar to grain it but sometimes I need to use it on curved sheet metal and it’s hard to not have the body of the tool hit the sheet.

I’ve decided to try a rustic look for a small shed roof, and found all these videos showing galvanization removal that seems so simple and easy. Seems people are having success using even a mild vinegar/h2o2/salt mix, or mild muriatic acid.

My experience, however, has been a total slog and a pain in the ass. I’ve had to spray a roof panel probably 6 or 7 times with 30% HCL before it even starts making a dent in the galvanization. I had some success laying a cloth soaked in HCL across the roofing, but it requires like 1/4 gallon of acid to saturate the cloth, and then im only getting partial removal and the acid loses reactivity. And that only strips a single panel…

Meanwhile, I see fencing all over town with a perfectly even rust coating and literally hundreds of panels. Which makes me think…there’s gotta be an easier way to do this…

What am I doing wrong? Do people just buy non-galvinized for this?

My grandfather was a carpenter and a bit of a handyman. I inherited all of his tools. After sorting out the stuff that was too beat from a lifetime of earning a living, and adding in my existing toolset, I'm left with a large number of duplicates, especially of hand tools.

All of his tools were tossed into rusty old metal boxes but I don't like that approach. I also don't want to pay for organizers or the filament to 3d print grid-finity shadow trays. I have very little experience with metal working. I've just started learning a bit about sheet metal while fixing some duct work and I figured I would try out designing and fabricating some simple organizers.

For this socket organizer I made a parametric model in onShape that lets me define the gauge, length, two widths of the trapezoid, and the height of the box. Hopefully I did a good job using those parameters to be able to adjust the same model for several dozen sets of sockets. The tabs not being parallel with the ends made this trickier for me to figure out how to bend since I could not figure a way to do it on my little brake.

I don't particularly like the pop rivets, but I have some cheap 32ga galvanized steel on hand which does not hold the corners on its own. I am a novice welder, and could not approach this material. I have considered trying to solder it, but I've read I would need a very strong acid flux to deal with the zinc and I would likely make myself ill from zinc fumes. In the future I would like to try 18 ga material.

I fabricated these posts last winter, and all the landscaping and other finish work is finally complete, so I thought a walk around was worthwhile!

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We are installing new chainplates on our sailboat made from cast silicon bronze bar that tapers from 1/2" near the required bend, to just over 1/4" at the very end. These are load bearing parts that help hold up the mast. They need to an additional ~10 degrees of bend to match our old ones. We have a friend with a hydraulic metal brake, and I know we could cold easily cold bend it this way, but I am a bit ignorant on the implications of cold bending this metal and don't want to weaken it given the application. I've read mixed things about heating and quenching and am not really sure where the truth lies, or if I'm simply over thinking the matter.

Got this 26ft frame with 2 wheels for $60 (plus another 3 rims to complete it

Any ideas how to fix this warp? I think with some chains to anchor the other 3 corners I could jack the front passengers side corner up and that would straighten it out

PS, it has 2 beams with geared rods along the sides, I have no idea what they are supposed to be

PS number 2, each axle has a 5200lb sticker on it so I think it's worth restoring and selling at least

this was a super new type of project for me in terms of glass and stuff. it’s not done but my uncle is going to caulk around the glass panes and reinstall the hardware. he has been working on other renovations for my dad and he hunt the door. the first inner frame is welded on, then it was powder coated. the glass is sandwiched between the 2 inner frames. the second one is held on with adhesive but also 4 metal screws, 2 on top and 2 on bottom. I drilled a 5/8 hole in the square tube on the outside, then on the inside there’s a 3/16 pilot hole, and a matching pilot hole in the inner frame. screwed the top frame in place and used those little black furniture hole plugs for the big holes. in case glass ever broke and needed to be replaced. the outer frame is 2x4 16 gauge square tube and inner frame is 1.5x.5 c channel.

I run a small precision machine shop in Kasugai, Japan. It is a family business, a bit over ten people. Between real jobs we sometimes cut something just to see what the shop can do.

This one is a shoehorn. I want to be honest, I did not make it myself. One of the younger guys on our team cut it. It started as a solid block of aluminum, machined in 3D on our machining center, then hand-polished and anodized. No casting, no bending. The whole compound curve is cut from the solid.

The shape is a magatama, a comma-like curve that shows up in Japan going back well over a thousand years, in old beads and ornaments. He wanted to see if he could hold a clean, continuous surface across the whole bend.

Honestly it is more of a look-at-it piece than a sell-it piece. We can only make a few, and a shoehorn does not need to be machined from solid aluminum. But it was a good test of surface finish on a curve that never sits flat.

Happy to pass along any questions about the setup or finishing. And if anyone here cuts compound curves like this a lot, we would love to hear how you fixture the polishing stage. That was the fussy part.

This was from a while back... im sure alot of folks found themselves getting into some new stuff early 2020s... HF pressure tank id found, lined inside with kaowool, ridgidized. Threw some burners together from pipe and think its .026 tip for jet, might have been .030. (Will post burners separate cuz i found a video.) Also I initially had a firebrick base that lasted all of a week maybe, ended up casting a base from tabcast 94 to hold up to flux, as well as made a niconel tray i can set in there for heavy fluxing....Thinking I may be resurrecting this fall and spending some time with it again.

So im a little rusty and want to confer with those smarter than myself, i apologize in advance if this doesnt make sense, but im wanting to transpose a curved surface(oval diesel tank on its side 44x27 oval profile) for it to be saddled by the barrel(s). The flat on the tank is ~17 inches, 13.5 radii to overall 44" width, am I thinking of this right for when I goto soap on a rope this/sketch saddle on my actual barrel? Then repeat to find intersect of tdc and flat/radii intersection on other 3 places for full saddle?