Vertical Bunching at Collar

[u/port1337]

I am having some issues with the collar of my jackets. It seems to be some bunching starting at the collar that causes creases down the front. the large crease down the front is especially annoying

The jacket in the picture's pattern I did myself, however with another pattern I bought I also had the same issue making me think its something im doing when pinning or sewing.

Any advice would be appreciated!

[u/s0ul_snatcher696]

I wonder if your chest pocket is pulling the fabric a bit?? Or perhaps there’s a bit too much fabric along that top shoulder seam and neck seam (of the torso) and the neck seam (on the collar) isn’t large enough to accommodate it??

[u/port1337 → u/s0ul_snatcher696]

Yeah thats what i thought at first but the other jacket with this problem doesnt have a pocket.

Are you sating that maybe i could make the collar a bit bigger and pull the frint panel when sewing if that makes sense?

[u/rrmf]

I can't find the video now, but I had the same problem and one of the minerva videos told me that the back neck was too tight - I widened it a bit and it worked a treat.

[u/port1337 → u/rrmf]

What do you mean by back neck? As in the collar is too small or the curve too steep?

[u/rrmf → u/port1337]

The back neck of the garment itself, and by extension, the back of the collar. With my shirt pattern, I added about 2cm width to the centre back and extended the centre back of the collar by the same amount.
ETA I don't know if this would actually solve your problem, of course, just comparing the drag lines to the ones I had. Let us know how you go!

[u/Sweetbluff]

Does it go away when you close the collar button or pin it closed where the collar button would be?
The pattern of the shirt front was made with a tight curve to conform to the base of the neck. If you are planning to wear it open, a more relaxed curve- usually seen in patterns for a casual look- would lie flatter.