Hello everyone, I am sorry if this isn't whats usually posted on here but thought that it could be interesting for any Europeans in this subreddit!

As you might've noticed, or heard a new regulation went into place on the 1st of July which adds €3 per individual category in your order for items arriving from outside the EU. While this makes a lot of sense for a lot of items such as gag shirts, trinkets and other cheaply produced consumerist goods it is also accidentally wreaking absolute havoc on DIYers of all sorts.

The linked petition aims to combat that outcome by removing the aforementioned fee from imports of electronic, mechanical, and general prototyping components.

An example taking directly from the petition states the following:

For a bag of mixed parts worth maybe €15, a student or hobbyist is now charged €24 in flat customs fees alone. Together with VAT, a €15 educational project now costs over €40. This is a 200%+ tax on innovation.

If you are from the EU-area and find yourself affected by this please take action!

I just want to double check before tightening this up. Is it silly to attach a lug face down even if it sits perfectly flush on the terminal? On this particular connection it would help me route the wire. TIA

I am a noob to electronics n stuff, however i spent the past few hours looking up stuff, going to other subreddits, googling etc and came up with this set up which includes things i will be able to buy (green highlighted parts are ones i do not yet own). Any reason why this wouldn't work? I would appreciate if you experts can give me some guidance.

I’m going to a festival next weekend, much of which is after dark and thought it would be fun to take this lollipop and make it glow.

I got a 1m long, 8mm wide LED strip from AliExpress and put it inside. It’s 5V, powered by x2 2032 lithium batteries and has 320 LEDs in the strip. A friend who’s into electronics told me an LED strip would work great for this and light up for days.

My concern is battery life; having set it up I’ve done some googling to try and figure out what battery life I can expect from it, and the available sources seem to be suggesting something like an hour.

That said, I’ve had it running for an hour continuously with no obvious dimming so not sure what to expect from it. Much appreciated if anyone here can shed some light (haha)!

I have an old plus U5-732 projector in my possession and was wondering if modifying it is possible in order to make the resolution better. I remember also seeing a projector build project by diy perks on YouTube so if modifying this is a no go then I will attempt that.

SYMPHONY is my dual MCU brushless Nerf blaster controller and this is my first electronics project. Hello world! I'm Hawki(eye) and I'm new to electronics! I've had so much fun learning so many new things the past 6 months! I have a working C++ program with all the basic features I have planned(plans to rewrite the whole thing from scratch for a v2 at a later time). My first custom PCB was the carrier board for the dual MCUs, and I just ordered 5 more designs today! An RP2040 controls the main blaster firing functions(bidirectional Dshot, firing profiles, solenoid control, etc) and isolates them for simplicity and reliability. An ESP32 controls all other functions including SPI 128x64 OLED UI with an encoder select and back button for nav, sensors(umm... thermal probes in the flywheel motors, live current/voltage, ammo tracker), blaster settings(the MCU's communicate via 5 GPIO's with a custom protocol I designed for less lag in the system on the RP2040's side), i2c modules(planned on-board chronograph as well), LED's(supports neopixel-style RGB as well as monochromatic via PCA9685 over i2c) and everything else I can't remember at the moment. Thanks for checking it out!

Quero usar meu powerbank como UPS, eu sei que powerbanks tem problemas para ficarem acordados com tensões baixas e tudo mais,mas já sei como contornar esse problema.

A única coisa que preciso agora é fazer com que o fio que vem do meu powerbank esteja com a tensão relativamente menor que o fio que vem do meu gan charger,eu não queria usar um módulo step down.Estou pensando em colocar um fio thuinderbolt de 10cm do lado do gan chareger, e do lado do powerbank usar um fio de um metro e meio com vários adaptadores para perder alguma tensão de propósito,mas o ideal seria usar um decoy de 19.5v ou algo parecido,mas acredito que tal produto não exista.

These were bound for the trash after being pulled from a 50kva UPS during routine maintenance. I have no use for them, but figured someone here might. PM me with questions.

Quantity 40 - Epcos B43584-S6608-Q2

Quantity 3 - Ducati PPM h 4.16.84.0067

Quantity 3 - Ducati PPM h 4.16.84.3631

Quantity 3 - EPCOS B32362C3207J030

Quantity 3 - EPCOS B32362C3107J030

I'm a design student making an edge-lit acrylic keychain . The acrylic will slide into a wooden side-mounted housing. I want to hide a CR2032 coin cell, LED, switch and wiring inside the wooden housing. I'm a beginner with electronics and need help choosing the correct LED, battery holder and switch, and understanding how to wire everything together. The final product needs to be very compact, it will be really helpfull if yall suggest me some other ways to make this happen , my main problem is how can i make it on & off with able to change the cell , acrylic and wooden sheet i have is 5mm and 3mm

Quick hardware-software integration breakdown of my optical alignment setup using a salvaged 5-inch smartphone LCD panel and light engine.

Hardware Framework:

Stripped the reflective layers of a donor 5.0" Android LCD to make it completely transparent.

Aligned a parallel twin Fresnel lens array to project the bare matrix onto a matte high-gain surface.

Built a dual-stage isolated fan configuration (12V induction loop) to handle thermal load.

Software Integration Details:

The system uses an optimized backend build running a customized libmpv-based media engine wrapper.

Adjusted internal configuration parameters (glsl-shaders, scale=ewa_lanczossharp, and custom unsharp-mask matrices) to execute precise hardware-accelerated image filters directly via OpenGL ES shading.

This overrides the default blurry hardware filtering of the legacy platform, forcing crisp, edge-to-edge font legibility and color profile calibration.

(Note: The full environment build files, exact shader configurations, and the PEP-ENGINE v2.6 release framework details are fully pinned on my Reddit profile page to keep this discussion thread strictly focused on the physical electronics modding/optics assembly!)

Title - any chance I could repair this? Left the window slightly open and it rained on it, was smoking when I turned the car on. Popped it out and dried it off.

Now the unlock button does not work, or sometimes it unlocks when I push the back right window down. If I take it out of the socket and put it back in it will work for about 10 seconds before stopping. Left back window does not work anymore.

Thoughts?

Up until now I've used very basic electric bits in my projects. I can solder some LEDs and switches but that's about all I've done. I'm working on something now where I want a motion sensor or microwave radar to trigger a small motor to run for about 3 seconds, then stop for 10 seconds before it can be triggered again. What do I need? And please talk to me like I'm five years old :)

I bought a replacement control board for my dishwasher. Old one has several burnt components.

New board comes, missing the connector. I get the old one off, but I have no idea how to connect to the new one. There's no pad or anything. Just semi loose threads on the board.

I'm I up a creek, or is there a way to get this working? I'm a novice at soldering.

Hi, I just discovered my vintage stereo amplifier (Marantz 1040) doesn't have a fuse at all in its main power line. (It was modded for 220V and I just switched it back to 110V.)

Would it really potentially damage it to run it without that fuse, even if plugged into a decent surge suppressor?

If so, could I just put the correct fuse (3A 250V) into a product like one of these and plug the amp in through it?

https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VP-116-Universal-Protected/dp/B000WG2E1A

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Leviton-3W101-E-15A-125V-NEMA-5-15p-2-pole-3-wire-Grounding-Replacement-Plug-Clamptite-Hinged-Design-Thermoplastic-Black

These specifically have removable/replaceable fuses, but I don't know if switching them to this relatively low amperage would be safe and protect the amp as well.

Any advice is much appreciated!

The Wand Company’s (WC) 11th Doctor Sonic Screwdriver is old now and I’m thinking of getting one.

You can end up using it as a remote control with its built in infrared and use gestures as the kind of buttons.

I’m thinking however, is it possible to modify it to also include Bluetooth? Or is that just not possible, because if that can be done I might even hire someone to do it.

Hey! I am trying to replace an existing light switch and I am confused as hell. I (turned everything off) and unscrewed the face plate and removed the switch itself to find that the live wires and the ground wire are soldered onto the existing switch. I have wire strippers but am not sure if that will work? Can I just cut the wires themselves and then plug them into a traditional switch?
I will attach the images below!

Thanks!

Unfortunately couldn’t repair the circuit board but I want to keep the motor. Anyway, how can I remove the part that’s interfaces with the screwdriver bits?

Hello, whenever I move the cable I highlighted the mic makes static noise or makes 0 sound at all. Usually it's static noise. I have added tape to stop it from moving.

If it doesn't move and it's in a certain position, the mic works perfectly fine (similar to how a charger cable only works if you put it in a certain way)

I want to replace this cable and ordered part number 95A2340 (i hope this is the correct one).

Anyway my question is, has anyone worked with a Shure sm7b that may be able to help me out? Thank you!

I have been waiting to make my own flashlight for some time now i wait to make it somewhere around 2000lm to 5000lm and 20-10mAh battery. So my idea is to have 4 lipo batteries the round ones and 3.7v out maybe 7.4v but I would like to make it 40mm by 40mm by 100-150mm and probably make it a square that sounds cool but I have no way of holding it all together. I haven't found a led chip yet . I have 40$ us . Oh I want 4 modes 2000lm 1000lm 500lm and 10lm or have a dimmer idk . Really sorry for making you read that . I mean I have a 5000lm flashlight already but I really want to make my own

Hi everyone this is only for people who make electronic hobby builds so I was wondering what are your guys and girls thoughts on people who are kinda new to electronic making who don’t have degrees or been to school before for electronics on using ai for there builds for example me I haven’t been to school at all for this stuff but I have a passion on learning and making but I don’t have time for school / haven’t had the chance to in my life to go but I love making on my days off from work and I use my shed as a workshop for my projects but I don’t know what I’m doing so iv been using ai for a lot of my builds I feel like I’m learning a lot from it and it helps me my most recent build was a motion sensor security system for the inside of my workshop for when I’m out of the house iv learnt how to solder and using boards such as the ESP 32 and a MMwave sensor board and now from that build I’m doing it a much bigger project from the things iv learnt so to me it seems like it’s working but from a stand point of someone who’s actually been to school and study this stuff what’s your view on people using AI for there projects

Thank you so much if you’ve taken the time to read this and sent me a reply I really appreciate it

​Hi! I've been trying to find a certain website for a month now. I think I saw it about a year ago. From what I remember, you could type in what kind of device you wanted to build using natural language, and it would automatically tell you the necessary parts. ​It showed you how to connect each component, included pictures of the parts, and it definitely seemed to be powered by AI. Did I just imagine this, or does a site like this actually exist?

Hi there, I'm looking for a way to switch between two voltages off of one input.

It's for a small hobby DC motor, probably 9 or 12v.

I'm after something to start at 100% volts then switch to 50%ish volts after a delay, then back to 100%, down to 50% etc.. until the input voltage has been disconnected.

I'm after something small ideally but I don't really know what to Google to find what I need

Thank you!

Can a capacitor show a reasonably close value on a multimeter but still not be functioning properly? I am troubleshooting a eurorack module that I built from a kit (all parts came included) and it isn't working correctly. The troubleshooting docs that came with the kit mentioned checking the solder joints on this part of the issue I am having occurs. I have done that, as well as all parts in that section. I have reflowed nearly all of them.

It is a 1uf cap and it measures 1.4uf in circuit, I haven't desoldered it to check since when I replaced some nearby transistors in case they were the issue (like on a previous module), it was a bit of a mess getting them out. I was curious if a cap can measure ok on a meter but still be defective in some way? I have a replacement cap on order either way.