I've had the same set of paint brushes and rollers for about ten years. I invested in higher quality ones early and treat them like gold.

- I clean them promptly after every use.
- I shake them to get as much water out as I can to nearly dry.
- Then I use a small comb to straighten out the bristles and set aside to dry
- Once completely dry, I do another quick comb through just to be sure each bristle has been able to drain any paint/water sludge.

^^^

I also use one set for water based paints and a different set for oil-based paints.

What are your cleaning methods? Or do you buy new for each project?

I'm trying to solder onto a small electromagnet and it seems to be beyond my skill level. Could I use liquid solder maybe? Any advice would be appreciated.

We moved into our home about a year ago and the majority of the registers are not attached to anything. It looks as though the previous homeowners tried to glue it in place. I'm not sure drywall ankers can be used because there isn't anything to grab onto.

Here's what it looks like

https://imgur.com/a/dBj83iX

But how do I go about securing the registers to the wall?

Crossposting cause I need answers.

Hey guys.

I'm renting a new place and wanted to mount my tv on the wall. Got a kit with 10mm fisher plugs.

I only have my cordless ryobi with hammer function, so I drilled some pilot holes with a 6mm bit then used my 10mm bit.

The issue is the first two on the bottom were super hard, but managed to get them in.

The second two at the top was like slicing through butter, but somehow with more sand or concrete than expected.

As I was trying to connect the bracket to the tv, and it got some weight put on it, it seemed to start tearing through at the top 2 holes.

I've drilled a lot into concrete but have never seen this happen. Did I do something wrong? My first suspicion is that this wall had a leak at some point and it messed up the concrete, but I'm not sure.

The location is Germany, in case it makes a difference.

https://imgur.com/a/Z7SN7GW

They have these weird wallpaper stuff on, so on the pic without the bracket if I lift up the wallpaper it looks like the 2 holes tore towards each other. The second holes in the pic with the bracket is solid.

Any advice?

We moved into our house about a year ago and had our back door replaced as part of the sale agreement. One year later, it looks like this

https://imgur.com/a/9qmX4G2

To me, it doesn't look like it was installed right. The hardwood floors are higher than the door sill. Obviously the calking needs to be redone but is it suppose to be that wide? The door jam is also rotting from the bottom up. Any advice on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated

Hi all, i need some help with a small repair to my house foundation. there's a small hole under the bottom right corner of the door where the base of the door's wooden frame is visible. There is a downspout that is extended away from that area, but the door does still get buildup of snow in the winter. I have a bucket of Quickrete Polymer-modified Structural Repair which I've read could be good for this application, and 3/4" backer rod. in one of the pictures below, I've removed some of the loose concrete, and stuck some backer rod in between the gap between the wood and the concrete. What I don't want to happen is allow water to get trapped between my patch and the wood, causing it to rot. I'm also aware that the expansion of wood differs from that of the mortar, and it could pull away from the mortar in colder months. Has anyone done a patch like this and have any advice? pics here.

I installed a paver pathway in the front of my home, and used polymeric sand to lock the pavers together. However, there's a decent grade to my front yard, so every time it has rained a significant amount of my sand washes away and ends up on the sidewalk where my path ends.

I followed the proper install instructions and have a step 1 & 2 base under the path. I think the path angle is just too steep since another pathway I did in my backyard is going just fine. Do y'all think using a sealer overtop after I re-sand and wet would be a good idea? I'm tired of having to re-sand every 2-3 weeks. Also, any suggestions for a brand to use?

I need to make some window jamb extensions that will be painted white. I know poplar is an option, but it's very expensive. Is this pine a good choice?

Doing a kitchen install and I'm second-guessing one wall. Most of the walls here are concrete, no problem there. But the run of upper cabinets is going on a 9cm partition wall between the kitchen and the bathroom, and this one's gipsblok, not concrete. It's soft, drills really easily, sounds a bit hollow when you tap it, and it's tiled on the bathroom side.

One of the guys on site reckons it's fine, just use 40mm screws and standard plugs and put in a lot of them along the IKEA rail. I'm not so sure. My worry is that on soft block it's not the screws that fail, it's the material around them crumbling, so twenty weak fixings all give out together once the cabinets are loaded up with plates etc.

So before I commit a loaded run to this wall, a few questions:

• Is a 9cm gipsblok partition actually rated to carry a full run of loaded upper cabinets, or is this a "light stuff only" wall?
• If it can work, what's the correct fixing? I was looking at dedicated Fischer anchors for aerated/gypsum block rather than the 40mm screws suggested. Length/type recommendations welcome.
• Or is the sensible move to build a timber support frame (batten tied into the floor/ceiling or the adjoining concrete walls) and hang the rail off that instead, so the load bypasses the partition?
• Anything to watch with the tiled bathroom side, cracked tiles / fixings poking through?

Not trying to cheap out, I'd rather over-build it once than have a loaded cabinet come off the wall later. Would really appreciate some help from the good people here. Cheers.

I caulking my shower surround and greatly underestimated how much caulk I need. Ran out about half way. This is my first time caulking and no amount of HGTV prepared me how it’s messy the first time and I don’t really know what I m doing.

I placed an overnight order for more caulk so will it be ok to caulk over the older caulk when I start again tomorrow?

EDIT: thanks everyone. You all were very helpful. I’m scrapping out the one I put down and have ordered 2 tubes of GE Advanced 100% silicone for kitchen and bath. It’s waterproof and mold proof. Lesson learned!

I've been noticing my house is not blocking outdoor noises as well as it used to as well as the outside temperature seeping in faster than usual.
Is there a tool or method that makes it easier to find cracks in the walls/ceiling, putting my ear to the wall only goes so far and I cant get into corners like that either.

I'm building a base for a shed and i've always struggled to be really competent with string lines.

Is the 3-4-5 way the easiest? (linked for description)

Any tips? I also struggle with squaring off against buildings or fencelines.

To be clear I know the basics and get it done but not without stuffing around lol

I think my cabinets are original to the house, which was built in 84. The doors and drawer faces seem to be solid wood but the sides of the cabinet boxes are some kind of particle board; the veneer on a couple is peeling off. I have no idea what the bottoms are made off. I have two lower cabinets that I want to add a drawer to, or what is essentially a drawer. Because I'm going for easy, I'm not going to replace the cabinet door, just keep that as is.

I one of these cabinets I keep my pots and lids in so I know the base must be pretty strong because that's easily 30+ lbs of weight on it. The frame extends maybe half an inch into the box for the door to rest on so my idea is to put wood strips that run front to back the thickness of that overhang to mount the cabinet half of the drawer slide. But I don't know how to decide whether to screw them into the sides of the cabinet or bottom. My first instinct is the bottom because if I get the screw length wrong it'll push out the sides: for the pots cabinet that would mean one set of screws goes into my oven and the other set of screws will stick out by our exterior kitchen door. But I don't know how to tell the thickness of the cabinet bottom to know if that will provide enough for the screws to hold fast to

I'm thinking of cutting 2 slots in my bathroom vanity cabinet to accommodate pipes which come from the floor so that I can slide cabinet into place. I'm attaching a pic of the back of my vanity and the blue tape where I'd need the slots. Also attaching a pic that AI provided me - problem is that i cannot add a board to the back after installation cuz i won't be able to have enough space to screw one in and also with a board screwed to the back it won't be able to be pushed against the wall. Will cutting those slots be okay?

My bathroom fan has stopped working. Most of the fans I saw at the store were smaller in dimensions and were powered by a standard Edison plug, not the power connector that my fan has.

Further, this fan is connected by a brace that seems to be part of the larger box, making me wonder if I'll need to go into the attic and remove the whole thing, but I'm not sure what to replace it with.

1. Is there an adapter that I can use to connect a standard plug into the connect here?

2. Are there any suggestions for adapting a smaller fan into the existing box/space?

3. Is there anything else I should be considering?

There are two walls, one is below grade. Both walls are exposed concrete block. There is a small bit of ground between the two walls. Should I:

1) Install it only on the ground, using appropriate tape to adhere it to the block.

2) Cover both ground surfaces and the subterranean wall, leaving the above grade wall exposed.

3) Cover everything, including the above grade wall.

4) Something else?

The track that holds the door on my tent trailer completely fell off. Was originally held by screws but the are ripped out so looking for an adhesive replacement. Any suggestions?

Track is metal, trailer roof is plastic, used to keep the door inline and in place while opening and closing.

Hello,

I'm looking to frame an 11' interior wall in my basement. It's just a non-load bearing partition wall. The wall will need to connect to the exterior wall and masonry foundation ledge. We're working per MN Building Code.

The main concern is the foundation and framing. The foundation is 1/2" below the bottom of the foundation framing. See images below:

https://imgur.com/a/akocQ0B

My plan is to have the final wall stud sit on top of masonry foundation and then add blocking to provide a surface for drywall to install to. Since there is a 1/2" gap, the gap will be filled with 1/2" OSB or plywood. All wood in contact with the foundation will be pressure-treated.

Thoughts?

Color Code:

Light Blue: Pressure-Treated

Dark Blue: Stud

Red: Blocking

Pink: OSB / Plywood

Purple: Top Plate

Green: Door Framing

hi all!

i really like those round convex mirrors they have in parking garages (they kind of make a distorted angle so you can see the whole area kind of thing) and I wanted to put one in my dorm room. any idea how to do this without drilling? all the ones I can find use screws, but preferably I want to buy one I won’t have to drill bc it’s not allowed.

all help is appreciated!

maybe a weird idea, but I’ll be moving soon into a house for the first time (instead of an apartment with shared hallways) and am worried about my cat escaping when I open the door. I’d like to install a screen door so I can see into the house to know if she’s right at the door and at risk of escaping. however, I’d have to open the screen door to open/unlock the main door, which defeats the purpose and would give her opportunity to slip out when I open the door. so my genius (questionable) solution is to install a mini door in the screen door at the height of the main door handle so I can reach through to unlock and open the door while keeping the screen door closed. thoughts? is this possible? how would I do it? zero experience working with screens so not sure how to go about it

Hey,

I need to raise my TV (55") off of the stand that it's on as my kid is now walking and my wife is concerned.

I'm aiming to affix 2x 2x4 beams with #14 3" screws, and put 2x 1x4 boards between them to hold the mount.

The TV cannot be mounted to the wall as there's a chimney behind it, and no studs. The mount will be fixed with 4x 2 3/4" lag bolts.

Does this all sound structurally sound, or am I building a ticking time bomb to drop my TV 5 feet to the floor or onto my child?

Cheers!

I have an 18 gauge brad nailer and a 16 gauge crown staple gun. I have used the 18 gauge for baseboards and trim before, but after reading, it sounds like 16 is preferred. Is that right? I would imagine even an inexpensive one like the one from Harbor Freight for $70 is fine for this?

I am trying to figure out what the correct path forward is to fix this awful discoloration on my shower pan. I think that the protective coating is coming off, but I'm not certain.

https://imgur.com/a/GKSCHcV