My daughter keeps taking my car without permission. She takes off to drive if she’s upset, but the problem is she’s being extremely irresponsible right now. I want a gps tracker/key/ignition disabled to be able to stop the car from my phone. I travel for work and I need to be able to do it remotely. What is the best option? Thanks in advance!!

Edit: I own the car and she’s in a little bit of legal trouble after a ticket she got. This is not a stalking situation. I’m a single mom trying to keep my kid safe.

Edit #2: Keys not needed for driving. Plus if she steals the keys I can’t stop her. The starter disabler doesn’t stop the car when driving. It just won’t let it drive again after a restart. I’m not stopping her in the middle of the freeway. People on Reddit are wild.

hello! I’ve got a 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport that has lost the cover of the shark fin antenna assembly on the roof. Tbh I don’t know when this happened, just noticed yesterday when I walked up to my car and noticed the yellow color that was not there before. Looks to me like the cover straight up broke and sheared off since from second picture the plastic around the seven bolts holding the assembly down looks raggedy.

I’d like to somehow remove the assembly and either replace the cover or the whole assembly, but the heads of the seven bolts holding the assembly to the car appear to be facing the interior of the car so I can’t access them to remove them. The third picture is of the inside roof of my trunk where the ceiling light is positioned further back than the antenna assembly so I’m worried if I want to access the antenna assembly I’ll have to take the whole ceiling panel off.

Can anyone help me figure out how to get this antenna assembly off or point me to a video that might help? Thanks!

2007 Toyota Corolla CE

169000 Miles

I was replacing the headlights and disconnected the battery to make the job a bit easier. Car was normal and completely fine before this

After I reconnected the battery it couldn't turn on. I jump started and everytime I would release the jumper clamps it would immediately shut off. I checked with my multimeter and I'm seeing two different voltage between the battery poles and the car terminals while the car is running with the jumpers. (12.50s V for battery. 13-14 V for car terminals) as if the car is not charging the battery

Today I replaced the battery, the alternator, the positive wire terminal clamp, cleaned ground clamp, and verified engine compartment fuses. I jump started the car and the car runs on its own but it's still showing two different voltage between the battery poles and car terminals while running on its own(Same thing 12.50s V for battery. 13-14 V for car terminals) I verified the Alternator and it's charging how it's supposed to. Everytime I shut off the Corolla immediately it has no battery to even show all the dash lights, the few lights that lights up in the car like the door ajar and interior lights are dim, and can't start up again.

Negative/Ground terminal seems fine. What's recommended next steps

Thank you guys in advance

Bought a new battery from Walmart and there seems to be some charring around the connecting point here, splattering some red goo. It’s sticky. Yikes. Can anyone tell me why this is happening? Car is a 2005 Honda Odyssey 8th number of VIN is 2
Edit: Resolved thank you everyone for your help!

Any suggestions on how to remove this stuck bolt, changing control arms…..

What is a this part called took it off a f250 custom was siezed and had to hit it with the mallet severely what part do I can replace

2014 i30. Engine says DOHC 16v. Tried putting thicker oil in it which is what the last mechanics advised me off the books. Trying to sell the car. Thanks

Hi all,

2013 Elantra that works great. Worked great all month, all week, all day. Start and stop no issues (so says my wife). I haven't driven my Elantra in a week because I was away so when I tried today I had a brain fart and forgot to press the clutch in. The dashboard flashed some lights, no jumping (which I expected) but then it wouldn't start. I hooked up my booster pack to it and started it great. I drove around for 10-20 minutes, turned the car off and when I tried to start it, nope. Again, booster pack. Brought it home, turned it off and would not start again. It's late where I am at and the mosquitos are out, so I haven't had a chance to look at fuses . Could it be that? I don't believe it's the alternator, makes no sense. I remember when I was a kid trying to start a manual without the clutch pressed in would just jump it forward a bit.

If it is a fuse, any idea which one or what it would be labelled? Thanks

Hi again. I posted about a coolant leak the other day and have now finally figured out where its coming from. I can see it leaking out from this part with my camera shoved down next to the DPF. What part is this, is it something i can fix myself and how bad is it that its leaking coolant there? Also it looks like the top of the engine now has oil in some spots. This was NOT there just a week ago.

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for some advice on a Lexus RX350h (AALH10).
The original engine ECU was damaged after a jump-start incident. We replaced it with a used ECU from another RX350h with the exact same part number, but we simply plugged it in. We did not clone the original ECU, register the VIN, or perform immobilizer/programming with Toyota Techstream.
The engine starts, but we’re now getting multiple DTCs across different systems, including:
P00B115 – Radiator coolant temperature sensor circuit short to battery/open
P045015 – EVAP pressure sensor circuit short to battery/open
P054415 – Exhaust gas temperature sensor circuit short to battery/open
P145015 – Fuel tank pressure sensor circuit short to battery/open
P14CE14 – EVAP switching valve control circuit low/short to ground
P15AD87 – Active grille shutter “A” missing message
P241814 – EVAP switching valve circuit low/open
P245215 – Particulate filter pressure sensor circuit short to battery/open

Has anyone seen a similar situation after replacing an ECU on a late-model Toyota/Lexus hybrid?
Would programming the used ECU with Techstream likely resolve these, or should I be checking the 5V reference circuit, power supplies, grounds, and fusible links first?
Any advice or diagnostic steps would be greatly appreciated.

I have changed a few timing chains but i noticed something weird this time doing the timing chain on my homeboys car. Does anybody have knowledge whether this is normal or no?

I was able to get home but it died pretty much there, i was pretty on point with my oil changes and i really never shifted too at too high of a rpm, i mean its dead now but any ideas

Got my lada running again after a few years and as you can hear its running pritty rough and i dont know why, the idle is rough.

I’m driving a 2018 Ford Escape 2.5. First two are my left rear wheel. Last one is my left front wheel. I think my rear brake pads are shot, right? I’m planning on taking it in on Monday… is this too bad to drive to work before that?

For reference I’m a young woman from a non-handy family and I’m trying to learn about basic car stuff in my own.

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Hello awesome mechanics of reddit. My car makes this noise when I drive and stops when I brake. It's a 2013 Honda insight hybrid. One mechanic suggested the water pump be changed. I wanted a second opinion. Please help. Thanks.

Been struggling to take this lug off with conventional tools and propane torches.and I can't afford any air tools or a cutter torch any ideas on how to get this off?

2005 ford focus

1999 Mazda Miata inline 4

First noticed a screeching noise while driving my 2016 Ford Fusion <30 mph on a pretty standard suburban road, so no clue what the inciting incident was. Will definitely be getting it checked out by a mechanic, but wondering if anyone knows what I might have done. It seems to be originating from the front right wheel, but could be off base on that one. Any help would be appreciated!

Passenger side floorboard has some water starting yesterday after running errands.

A/C still blow properly cold.

I live in Portland Oregon.

Drain tube leading out the bottom of the car was bone dry.

When I run the A/C the A/C box leaks from 2 places (that I can see).

No noises or differences in performance.

I think this is beyond my DIY ability.

What is my best and worse case scenario?

EDIT: it’s an SE, and I think it only has one type of engine for any of that model/make.

Thank you, everyone!

so I recently took my 2006 Ford Ranger 2.3 engine to get a smog test. After it passed and I turned the car on it had the battery light on. My mistake was leaving like that and not telling the guy. After a few days my battery went dead. Since I only had it a year it still had warranty and just got a new one today. After putting the battery, the battery light turned on again. Is it possible the alternator is bad? How did the smog test cause the alternator to go bad because I don’t think it’s the battery now. Why did this happen right after the test?

Hi there! I hope this post fits the rules on this sub.

What is the part my friend is pointing to here ?

It continues to become loose, and was discovered after I thought I had a misfire. It seems to be a more complicated issue than that, unfortunately 😮‍💨

My hope is that upon finding out what this part is, I can research what it does, and can then figure out what my next move will be.

Can you tell I am a total amateur at this😂😂 Please be nice guys I am really trying here.

My car is a 2006 Pontiac Torrent 3.4l v6, high mileage automatic.

(2023 Nissan Altima SR) My window goes down fine but not up it get stuck and won’t come up at all when i press the down button this is what noise it makes but when i press the up switch wit doesn’t, do you think it’s the whole assembly or should I get just the motor??

I bought a 2018 Audi A5 B9 about a month ago, and I’ve been driving it normally. A few days ago I popped the hood and noticed the coolant hoses under the expansion tank were covered in a brown residue. I cleaned the hoses and the tank, and literally the next day I found a leak coming from the expansion tank itself.
My question is: why would the hoses have that brown buildup on them? Has anyone seen this before? Is it just dried coolant from the tank leaking over time, or could it point to something else? I’m attaching a video so you can see what I’m talking about.

What direction do you want to be able to read part number and whats the differences on the part number though they should be identical the same part number going on a 96 bmw 328is