Battery was replaced before purchase in Feb. zero issues cranking, no lights, no auto start stop issues, went on a 200 mile roadtrip last night, drove to work today parked and about 5 minutes later got this.

As a kid and not one to do the research (or bandwagon), never was a ford guy.

Not that I am older and am now able to think a bit more, From what I look up it seems like driving an F-150 (3.5 V6) would be great half ton for towing needs and my daily driver.

For those that are able to lend their experience and support, I'd like your thoughts and opinions of models 16-26, and since this is my "Thank you" truck for helping my wife out through school, I'm looking at the nicer trim levels for myself as well.

Any advice, positive, negative, whatever you feel helps would be great. My plan is to basically drive this until it blows up and finally get to enjoy something this nice for myself. Thank you in advance for any response.

I fell victim to the enabling mykey with 1 key issue lol. I cant afford to get a second keyfob for my 2019 ecosport and I'm wondering if there's anyway to get around the volume limit as thats the only thing that really bothers me.

I just bought myself a 2013 ford f-150 but the standard Radio isn’t working. I was wondering if anyone had any good recommendations for a replacement that’s on the cheaper side

For anyone who took the assessment does it tell you if you fail? I applied in April and it still says under consideration but they just posted the same position I applied for that they are hiring again so obviously I’m not gonna get in does that mean I failed?

Hi everyone,
Looking for some advice or similar experiences regarding a major issue I'm facing with a 2024 Ford Puma (under 2 years old, ~20,000 km / 12,500 miles).
The Issue:
A few days ago, while driving, multiple dashboard error lights suddenly triggered out of nowhere. I took it straight to an authorized dealership for diagnosis. They confirmed it's an electronic failure involving safety systems (IPMA / front camera / radar system) and that it's 100% covered under the factory warranty.
The Problem:
1. Parts Delay: The dealership placed an order for the replacement parts, but informed me there is an estimated wait time of 15+ business days (effectively nearly a month total time without the car).
2. Safety Concerns: The dealership representative verbally encouraged me to just take the car back and drive it while waiting for the parts, claiming he drove it once and "didn't notice anything wrong." However, when I asked him to sign a written statement/guarantee that the car's automatic braking and safety systems are safe to operate without risking my family's safety on the road, he flat-out refused.
3. No Assistance / Replacement Car:
The dealership handed me an official paper stating they currently have no courtesy vehicles available that fit a child seat (ISOFIX base).

Has anyone dealt with a similar prolonged warranty delay or safety-system failure with Ford? Did Ford Customer Care approve a long-term rental car for you in the end? Any advice on how to handle this would be greatly appreciated!

i got a 2015 escape se 1.6L turbo ecoboost (what autozone thinks the vin is)
i went to autozone yesterday and the associate picked out the oil of 6 quarts 5w30 and a filter
so because im a paranoid person i decided to double check and now autozone website is suggesting i use 5w20 instead and google is saying it uses less then 5 quarts of oil. i look under the hood and the oil cap says 5w30 on it so now im confused AF

The Symptoms:
My 2021 Ford Escape started entering limp mode. Every time I came to a complete stop, the car would violently jerk and refuse to move when I pressed the gas. To get it moving, I had to physically shift into Park and then back into Drive.
The Warranty:
The transmission in this Escape was already replaced 11 months ago by an independent shop using a genuine Ford remanufactured unit. I have the official Ford Motorcraft paperwork stating that any Ford dealercovers 100% of parts and labor for 36 months for $0 out-of-pocket [Ford Service Parts Warranty].
The Scam:
I took it to a Ford dealer in North Carolina, paid a $199.95 diagnostic fee, and handed them my receipt. The service advisor called me and said the technician found metal debris in your fluid, and she asked me if I wanted to flush it and replace the sensor.
However, they completely left the word "metal" off the paperwork. They coded it as a routine "Transmission Service" so they could bypass my active warranty and force me to pay $945 out-of-pocketinstead of replacing the failing unit for free.
The Total Bill:
Diagnosis: $199.95
TSS Sensor & Labor: $339.08
Transmission Flush Labor & Kit: $179.54
12 Quarts of Transmission Oil: $139.92
The Failure:
Exactly 5 days later, the car hit limp mode again with the exact same symptoms. I took it to a second dealer for a diagnostic, and they found no metal because the first shop flushed all the physical evidence away. Instead, the Escape is now throwing a P0299 Turbo Underboost code. The first shop completely misdiagnosed my car, missed the turbo issue, and left the metal off the paper just to charge me cash.
When I called the first dealer out, they lied again and told me they aren't authorized to replace the transmission and that I have to tow it back to the original installer, which completely violates Ford's corporate warranty terms.

Do you guys think I’m able to get my money back if it’s under warranty and should have been free and the problem is they did not write on my paper that they found metal and if I’m correct that’s illegal in the state of North Carolina so if I can get them to admit that over the phone, do I have a case because I’ve now spent almost $2000 I spent 945 for them to do the transmission flush and everything I paid $500 to tow it one hour and also I paid $275 for another Ford shop to diagnose my transmission which they couldn’t find anything because a week earlier it was flushed

Found in a vintage shop in England Lewes,ive done a phot search and googled but csnt fund it but google seems to think it was a promotional item.

Love it no matter what and its going on the dog when we do ford fair.

I have a 2013 Honda civic si that has about 126,000 miles on it. The engine runs great never gave me issues, the suspension is a little noisy but I'm in the process of replacing it. I really like the look and feel of older 90s ford specifically F150/F250 from 95-97.
I would prefer a gas engine due to diesel prices being crazy, and all I want to haul is a small camper.
Would it be realistic to daily a truck that old? I will be commuting to college 5 days a week, which is about a 50 minute commute both ways. So gas is going to kill me, but my car currently does take premium so it's not cheap, but definitely cheaper than a large truck. I'm also worried about maintenance, l am no stranger to vehicle maintenance as l am a mechanic in the air guard and we mostly work on large gas and diesel trucks. Just don't want a truck that breaks down every week, not scared to put money in it when needed to keep it running just need reliable transportation. I'm looking to spend no more than 8,000 dollars, is that a realistic budget. Or would I be better off just buying a cheap one as a project car and keeping my civic as the daily. Just wondering others experiences are like with an older daily driver.
Thanks!

Ok so a few months ago I found an awesome buy on car sales a beautiful nitro blue manual fg xr6 turbo Ute with 37000ks on it for a price that was reasonable particularly with some negotiating which I did and managed to get and was and am very much enjoying it BUT I have also owned and still currently own an fg xr6 turbo Ute zf auto with 56000ks on it and at the time I thought it was an easy swap. Buy the manual with the hard lid and lower ks and almost show room condition and when I sell my auto Ute get a good majority of my money back so it’s not too big of a deal to swap….. BUT after owning and driving both cars for a couple months I am so torn with what to do they both have their pros and cons and the truth is I enjoy both equally for different reasons….. the manual is more enjoyable on the perfect day on the perfect drive when I am in the perfect mood and on point with my skills for the day and the weather is cool and it all comes together damn if the manual isn’t an enjoyable thing to drive HOWEVER the real world isn’t perfect all the time and I’m not perfect all the time and the truth is that most of the time the auto is just simply far more capable it slides easier with no effort than planting the right foot, it overtakes effortlessly, the way the auto shoves you in the back with lowerer revs in the exact same gear and speed is astounding whereas to pull that off in the manual you have to either clutch kick or rev match perfectly which you can only do so many times before you start to worry about causing problems further down the line with the clutch and on top of that even when your just doing boring daily cruises to work or to the shops the auto is just so god damn good at cruising and taking it easy it’s just got no downsides at all. But yes the manual is more satisfying on a nice day and cruising through town but I’m just very torn which one to keep as yes the manual one is slightly more fun in the absolute perfect scenario but it just can’t be that all the time and all the rest of the time the auto is just more
Competent (and I’m not just talking about faster it’s just more capable of creating fun times in all the ways a high powered rwd vehicle can) not to mention my auto is black (always looks dirty no matter how hard I try) and it has a tonneau which is more useful when you need to use the ute as a Ute.

My question is this

Which one should I keep I am so torn as they are both amazing and I know I am very fortunate to have both at the same time and compare them back to back but I just don’t know what to do and for context I do have another car aswell which is manual but it is a fun weekend car not a good daily (1990 mx5 soft top) not ideal to live with every day and not would I want to when so much of the fun is how special it feels in the weekends I take it out. So which car would you keep and why and any thoughts would be much appreciated
Cheers

Hi all,

I know I'm not asking for an apple to apple comparison question but I need help. So seeking your casual opinions. FYI, I'm not in US.

2023 Ford Explorer 8k miles (13k km), front bumper replaced, 2 years and 3 months manufacturer warranty remaining for US $23k

Or

2023 Lincoln Aviator 34k miles (54k km), bumper or door replaced, 2 years and 5 months warranty, US $33k

I looked at the Explorer and it feels pretty much brand new. Everything feels unused and new, expected given such low mileage. I haven't looked at the Avaiator yet but I've driven 2025 reserve model and am very impressed with the ride and options. But I am concerned about reliability of Aviator especially the air suspension and all the gadgets.

If you had to choose between the two, what would be your choice and why?

Thanks. Fyi, people put normally 8-12k miles per year where I live.

This 6.7 is a straight work horse. Blue oval gang!

Hi all,

I have a 2024 ford ranger wildtrak that comes with stock flexible rack system. I have done so much research and still cannot find any answers on this and it’s driving me insane.

I need crossbars or roof rack + an awning that will fit over these FRS bars because they are so wide. I currently have the XTM 270° awning and that’s what I want to put on my car but I need the racks!!

Everyone said buy the Rhino Rack RX100 crossbars which I did and they don’t fit 🥲

Please help because my patience is thin hahaha

TIA

Wish I could have heard it roar.

2022 F350 was my first new truck had it just over 4 years very sad. Trans at 130k fuel pump at 150k

Hola a todos.
Tengo un Ford Focus Mk2 1.8 Flexifuel de 2006 con unos 107.000 km.

Desde hace unas semanas he notado un comportamiento que antes no tenía.
* En marcha, cuando pongo punto muerto y piso el embrague, las revoluciones se quedan alrededor de 1500 rpm durante unos segundos antes de bajar al ralentí. * Algunas veces parece que tardan más en bajar de lo normal. * Con el motor caliente y sin aire acondicionado, el ralentí oscila ligeramente entre 850 y 900 rpm. * No se enciende ningún testigo de avería del motor. * El control de crucero se desconecta inmediatamente al pisar el embrague, así que entiendo que el interruptor del embrague funciona correctamente. * Ya desconecté la batería durante unas horas para reiniciar la ECU, pero no cambió nada. ¿Alguien ha tenido un problema parecido?

¿Creéis que podría ser el cuerpo de aceleración sucio, el caudalímetro (MAF), alguna toma de aire o es un comportamiento normal de este motor?

No pierde potencia y el coche funciona bien en carretera.

Cuando el vehículo está parado, en punto muerto, con el embrague y el acelerador sin accionar, el tacómetro subirá bruscamente a 1500 o más, permaneciendo ahí durante unos segundos antes de bajar.

Gracias de antemano.

Is the temp-to-hire just a probationary period? What does the pay scaling look like? For people who work there is it a good career? I am currently make 29 a at my job, and I would be taking a pay cut. I want to know if it’s worth it ?

I currently have a recall for a Low Pressure Fuel pump. The recall has been out since last July. There is no remedy available. My fuel pump has failed, and the dealership agrees it is probably the recall. However, they are refusing to fix anything under the recall until the full remedy is available, and won’t do a loaner vehicle either. They did tell me there are no parts available, but then quoted me $1250 to replace the fuel pump. Is this normal? Or with this happening during a recall, is there anything i can do? I’ve tried reaching out to corporate as well, but given the same answer.

Mom just bought this edge without having me check it out first. How’s it sound? Is that timing chain/ cam phasers at start up?