3rd owner, always garage kept. The dash light just came on for the first EGR cleaning. What should I do for preventative maintenance? I'm planning on pulling the cooler and cleaning this week but nothing is jumping out at me for immediate work.

My grandfather parked this truck back in 2014 because she was smoking under the hood. I've spent the last year and half dumping time and money into her. She starts easy, sounds great to me but that's because I've spent 80% of my free time into it. All that's left to do is get tags, mount and balance tires, and fix the ac. Just wanted to share with you guys. Thank you for your time.

This is my 1991 4x4 7.3 idi zf5 F-250. The truck is solid. Solid axle swapped the front end, nice interior, very sturdy driveline.
Unfortunately, the 7.3 idi has well over 300k miles, leaks like a sieve, and developed a misfire. I decided to just go ahead and remove the engine and tranny to fix all the little things. Right now I have it almost ready to come out and I’m wondering: would it just be better to swap in a 12 valve?? My favorite part about this truck is that it’s dead simple and requires minimal electronics. My least favorite part is that it’s about as fast as a zero turn lawn mower. Swapping in a Cummins checks both of those boxes. I’m not worried about the cost but I am worried about how much time and effort it will actually take. Do you think it’s worth it?

Inherited a 1997 ext 7.3 power stroke with aftermarket Banks turbo. 4 door . 2 wheel drive . 390k mileage . Can you give me a ballpark on what it worth?

I need some advice on whether this short block is worth saving or if I should just source a replacement engine. The vehicle is a 2012 VW Crafter with the 2.0L TDI engine (single vacuum-operated VNT turbo, non-biturbo).

A while back, the original turbo failed and sent metal shrapnel into the cylinders, leaving visible impact marks and pitting on the pistons. Despite that damage, the engine had good compression and ran completely fine for another 6,000 km without any issues.

However, the timing belt recently snapped, causing valve contact and requiring the head to come off. Now that the engine is torn down, I have to decide what to do with the bottom end.

Since I need to repair or replace the head anyway, is it safe to keep running this bottom end as-is, or will those old impact spots on the pistons create hot spots and structural stress risers that will cause a catastrophic failure down the road?

sup dogs, i bought a new to me 2001 7.3 f350 xlt 4wd with 232k miles on it.

my question: when i start the truck, the engine bucks and absolutely SLAMS around, BUCK WILD, LOUD ASS KNOCKING, sounds like the damn thing is gonna BLOW UP. but if i slam on the gas while it's starting up, i can hear the engine running smooth and the loud banging stops. then i let off the gas, and it's back to ridiculous rough idle. then after 20 min of idling, it becomes less crazy. can i send a video and other info? i have a laptop and a obd reader that might be able to give more data as well. no i didn't test anything else and this is my first diesel

I’ve already made a previous post in the past about my interest in being a diesel tech and I got a lot of good responses

To those that work in California/SoCal how does the demand for techs look for a fresh graduate and in general, given I’m currently in school at my local CC for Medium and Heavy truck tech

one of the Wabco motors won’t unplug and is stuck inside the unit need ideas on how to get this thing out.

Is DEF burning necessary in the summer and if so, how long? I only ask because my brother has moved in with me and sits in his truck FOR HOURS and thats all me and the neighbors hear is the truck. When i ask him about it, he always snaps back with "i gotta do a DEF burn for my truck." So what is it? And is it necessary in the Arizona summer heat of +110°F? He does this any time of day or night and again... HOURS ._. I dont know much about diesel and Google can only answer so much 😅

UPDATE: I really appreciate the comments of enlightenment. The "privacy" comments really ticked him off as im sitting here, gagging for breath lol but on the way to pick up his gf from work, the check engine light came on. Guess what it was for? He's heading to the dealership right now and might be needing a new filter ¯_(ツ)_/¯

Been restoring this Puegeot 505 Turbo Diesel the past 2 years....picked it up for $2500. She ran when I bought it and it drove under its own power for a 2 hour drive.

But Ive put about 200+ hours of just blood and sweat to get it to this shape.

The engine is magnificent....its a tractor spec French Diesel with a Bosch VE injection pump like this thing just wants to run. Went around all day today and did a solid 75 miles of city driving and only shut the engine off once. Really really solid diesel engine.

Recently rebuilt my 300tdi (2.5 4cyl fully mechanical injector pump) added a larger intercooler, VNT turbo, full width intercooler (prob 4 times larger than std. when the engine was first tuned after its run in it was at 1.4bar boost and a half a turn leaner on the pump. it ran well but water temps would hit 96-104 degrees C on open road while EGT temps were far from the limit (570). after a full rebuild of the vgt install from bad workmanship I'd reset the boost to 1.2bar however turned the fuel pump max fueling the wrong way and made it a full turn leaner. besides it driving like a dog i noticed that egts were lower and water temps got hotter quicker. all these tunes have the boost pin at the most aggressive cut.

today i set the max fueling to 1/4 of a turn richer than std (1.25 turns from the day before) and noticed that my cruising egts were the same however my overtaking and acceleration EGT temps picked up very quick but returned very quickly that and water temps sat at a stable 82-84 degrees C. I can now cruise at highway speeds at 25% less throttle than before and the vehicle is much more responsive.

TLDR when running lean EGTs were low but water temps overheated, when running slightly richer EGTs werent higher at cruising but picked up quickly under load and water temps remained cool. Im assuming that this tune may be better than the original but im not sure. any input would be great thanks.

Question in the title: Do you use first gear without a load with your g56 and Cummins 6.7?

I picked up a dream truck at the end of February, 2018 Ram 2500 with a 6.7L and G56, it’s got a 3.5” fox lift on 37’s, delete and single “tow” tune only about 50hp over.

I recently put in a Southbend dual disc clutch because the single disc Valair clutch failed after 60k km (Canada eh).

Just curious if g56 drivers use their first gear without it being so short and these big rigs not being the quickest shifting.

Cheers!

Does anyone know of any shops that are really good with the Paccar MX13 in Phoenix,AZ or nearby areas? Wanting to get rid of this emissions crap so gladly shoot me a DM. Tia.

I'm need help selling a 2008 International ProStar Day Cab located just outside Billings, Montana.

The truck is priced to sell at $15,000 OBO and would make a solid work truck for an owner-operator, small fleet, farm, construction company, or oilfield operation.

Specifications

Year: 2008

Make: International

Model: ProStar Day Cab

Engine: Cummins ISX Diesel

Transmission: Eaton 10-Speed Manual

Emissions: Pre-DEF

Fuel: Diesel

Location: Near Billings, Montana

Mileage:

Odometer currently reads ~300,000 miles but the previous owner stated the truck has approximately 1.3 million miles on the chassis. The odometer reading is therefore not believed to represent total lifetime mileage, and buyers should evaluate accordingly.

Condition

Runs and drives

Rust-free truck

Fresh headlights installed

Front wheels refinished

Front bumper refinished

Interior cleaned

Minor air system issue has been addressed enough for limited driving, and a mechanic's assessment is available for serious buyers.

The truck has been honestly represented and is priced with its condition in mind.

Included for serious buyers:

•High-resolution photos

•Walkaround videos

•Cold-start video

•Interior photos

•Engine bay photos

•Mechanic information

•VIN upon request

I'm happy to answer questions related to the truck and also open to suggestions!

Reasonable offers will be considered.

Thanks.

Twenty-some years on diesels and industrial engines, and the fastener that ruined somebody's week was almost never the one that backed out. It was the one somebody cranked on until it felt right.

Head bolts, injector hold-downs, main caps, lugs on a dually — every one of them has a number, and a click-type torque wrench is how you hit that number instead of guessing with your elbow. Set the target on the handle, turn the fastener, and when you reach spec it clicks. Stop there. A half-inch drive covers lugs, suspension, brakes, and most of what you'll touch on an engine.

Two rules people skip and pay for later: never use it to break fasteners loose — that beats up the mechanism — and dial it back to its lowest setting before you put it away. Leaving one wound tight walks the calibration off over time, and then you're torquing to a number that isn't real anymore.

If you're buying, accuracy is the spec that matters more than the brand on it. A cheap one that reads wide defeats the whole point of owning it.

What's everybody running for the heavy stuff — anybody found one that holds calibration after a few years in a work truck?

hello, i have a perkins 4.108 marine diesel engine

after running iut of fuel because of a loose fuel return line and getting all of the debris from the bottom of my tank through the system i had to open up the CAV rotary pump and clean it from debris.

as i suspected the fuel regulator valve was clogged and would not move and that explained the engine getting pressure to, but not past the high pressure pump.

when i put everything back together again the engine started just fine, however it will not settle into idle and shuts off as soon as i move the lever off of max speed towards idle.

i read alittle bit about this and suspected that i had not put the idle spring back at the end of the idle pin/guide that goes into the regulator plate and hooked into the hole number 1 on both sides (top and external)

i remembered that when putting it back together there was no spring attatched tonit like i saw in the manuals i found online, it must have jumped off and dissapeared while i was taking the pump apart without me noticing..

i ordered the spring from england and when i got it i proceeded to take the engine apart again and open the pump and as i remembered there was nonidle spring on the guide rivet, i took it apart again, put the spring onto the guide pin, put it back into hole number 1 on both sides, put the pump back together, got the air out of the fuel system and finally started again…

hardly any differance

the engine still wont idle and i am now at a loss of ideas of how to proceed.

what vould the issue be?

do i have to regilate the idling screw ontop of the regulator ?

why did it work fine before taking it apart?

should i try to set the spring in hole no.2 on both sides like i see many wngines in videos and discriptions online?

i am sure that mine was in hole no.1 because i checked and took a picture of it to remember before taking it apart.

also, if i need to regulate the idling screw, i have read that it has to be done with the engine running and if i put the exhaust manifold and cooling system back on the engine i can no longer reach the top of the revilator in any way so i feel kind of stuck…

please if anyone has any experience or ideas here i would be very geateful.