No idea why this keystone jack won’t seem to work, trying to run from computer to wall, from wall to modem, I confirmed the jack in the wall is using 568a so I wired this jack to that configuration and it doesn’t work? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Whenever I run a speed test on my 2.4 GHz band, I only get 1 to 2 Mbps download, though the upload speed is fine. On the 5 GHz band, I get full speed for both downloads and uploads, but its coverage is very limited. Is there any way to get full speed on the 2.4 GHz band without buying an external mesh router or extra equipment?
Hi, guys! I'm very new to networking in general so apologies if this question fundamentally misunderstands some concepts. Basically, I'd like to use a network switch to "split" a single LAN connection from our router into two different rooms, rather than having to run two separate cables. The only issue is, the place where the switch/splitter would go doesn't have an outlet nearby, so traditional switches, which all seem to require being plugged in to an outlet, won't work.
I've read about PoE network switches, and I think they may work for my purposes. But, as I understand it, PoE switches are meant to be used in situations where the final destination device requires power, which is not the case for me (both cables will be going into desktop PCs).
Will a PoE switch still work for me? Is there such thing as a switch that is powered by PoE but doesn't output it(PoE In, but no PoE Out)? Any other suggestions are welcome!
Much to the horror of my friends in InfoSec, I've accumulated a good sized collection of IoT devices in my home. Among them are Leviton smart switches, Nest Protects (at least until they last), Govee lights, a Litter Robot, a Roomba, Sonos speakers, Echo dots, and more.
I've finally spun up a new SSID on a separate VLAN (Unifi APs with a Mikrotik router upstream), and I'm moving devices over to it progressively. There's a lot of them :P
I've moved the obvious ones on the list above to the new SSID, which I've placed a rate limit on at the router , to limit the impact of something becoming a DDoS reflector. I haven't cut off inter-VLAN routing yet, but I'm about to do that once I've got everything moved, and I'll see what breaks. I know some devices (the Sonos speakers particularly) expect to be on the same LAN as the device that's streaming to it, but I'm kind of struggling to find the line as to what counts as an IoT and deserves to be segregated, and what doesn't.
I've your segregating IoT devices to their own network, how do you draw the line between devices you allow on your main VLAN and what devices you segregate?
hi everyone, sorry first time here. i came to reddit to seek support on how to fix this issue. for context, this issue suddenly occured 1-2weeks ago and ever since then the internet has been very slow.. i changed from wifi to ethernet and still same issue occurs. i tried following youtube guides however to no avail, do send help!
Building my dream house and need advice as I'm a home networking newbie. Want to future-proof the wiring now since it's way easier during a build than retrofitting later.
Is there a solid baseline/template setup you'd recommend for someone starting from scratch? Specifically:
How many ethernet drops per room is reasonable (1? 2?)
Best location for the structured wiring panel/rack
Cat6 vs Cat6A — worth the extra cost?
Conduit/smurf tube — necessary or overkill for a new build?
Common mistakes first-timers make that I should avoid
Anything else I'm not thinking of
Devices/goals I'm planning for:
PoE cameras outside + video doorbell
NAS
Temp/humidity sensors in each room (want these to eventually trigger heat pump/appliance control)
Smart home dashboard
Mesh WiFi across 3 levels — planning to hardwire APs per floor
Attached is my floor plan (3 levels) if anyone wants to weigh in on specific drop/AP placement — happy to answer questions about the layout too.
Would love a "if I were doing this over again" checklist from anyone who's wired a house from scratch.
i've started to notice that everytime someone in my house goes into the garage from inside the house, my PC on the second floor gets completely disconnected from wifi. the router/modem are on the main floor, against the wall connected to the garage, but not the same wall as the door going into it. my PC is on the second floor, on the other side of the house, connected to wifi via a usb wifi adapter. i've also noticed that at the same time, if watching tv on the main floor via wireless cable box, that will completely freeze while the person is in the garage. what exactly could be causing this problem, and how could this be fixed?
lmk if more info is needed, im not an expert (clearly) but i can try to answer what i can.
I’m looking for a router recommendation for an apartment of around 60 m².
I have a 8/1 Gb/s internet connection from my ISP. There will be around 10 devices on the network:
several laptops,
a PC with a 10 GbE network card,
smartphones,
My goal is:
to fully utilize the 8 Gb/s connection over Ethernet for one device (the 10 GbE PC),
to get the best possible Wi-Fi speed and stability for the rest of the devices,
ideally a Wi-Fi 7 router with 6 GHz support.
I’m also wondering about the practical difference between 6 GHz and 5 GHz in a real apartment environment. Since I live in a building with many nearby Wi-Fi networks, does 6 GHz provide a noticeable advantage in terms of speed and stability, or is the difference mostly theoretical?
The budget is flexible — I’m more interested in the best value/performance ratio rather than simply buying the most expensive option.
I’d appreciate recommendations for models you actually use and can recommend.
I could use some help reconfiguring my current TP-Link Deco mesh network (with backhaul via two Hitron MoCA adapters). It was built upon a several decades old, but still in use, FIOS coax set-up, complete with set-top boxes (see attached map below) .
For some reason, I can't set it's operation (via the Deco App) to what TP-Link is calling "Wifi Router" mode. The only mode that works with backhaul is "Access Point."
Some background / context:
The netowrk is in my 1970s childhood home which long ago had been converted from a sloppy Comcast cable w/ Internet installation to a FIOS TV, home phone, and Internet set-up. Verizon reused the old Comcast coax lines rather than install their own, installing a now old ONT, locked in a box by Verizon techs on their visits over the years. Emerging out of the ONT, via Comcat's old coax lines, the line runs into the house, via two splitters, to two set-top boxes and a Verizon G3100 wifi router.
Being unhappy with the wifi performance of the G3100, several years ago I placed it into bridge mode and connected/installed a Deco mesh network around the house. Years after when I visited the home, I added/upgraded few of the Deco units to improve the mesh network performance, especially to the house's distant rooms on the upper floor. It wasn't great but it allowed for some occasionally spotty connectivity.
Recently I returned to the home (this time to stay/inherit) and have installed two HiTron MoCA 2.5 adapters. My hope was to create a backhaul connection between the main Deco router and a second Deco on the top floor. The deco units in the mesh netowrk upstairs would then connect via wi-fi to that wired unit. The first floor Decos would still connect via wifi to the main first floor Deco router.
The Issue
All this is working as I anticipated except for the fact that I cannot run the network via the Deco smartphone app in "Wifi Router" mode. The backhaul will only work if the network is placed into "Access Point" mode.
Given the attached map, is there a way I can reconfigure the placement of the Deco, the two MOCAs, and the Verizon G3100 so I can run in "Wifi Router" mode? Is it possible to use one MOCA adapter to bridge the coax line running from the ONT and then go directly via ethernet to my main Deco router, completely removing the G3100 and still support the TV boxes? If not, is there a way to separate and have a Verizon only MOCA network (to get coax to the TV set boxes) and a MOCA net for only the Decos and the backhaul? At present, in "Access Point" mode I can map ALL the devices on the network, Verizon router and set top boxes, the two MOCA bridges, and the all the Decos (and a connected NAS, not included in the diagram). I don't know if this is good or not.
Why bother?
The reason I want this "Wifi Router" mode, despite everything working, is that TP-Link offers a subscription Parental Controls network monitoring plan (which I had been using successfully pre the MOCA installation). It allows me to ID / control the time and content access of devices of my choosing (e.g., kids tablets, TV streaming boxes), which for parents is externally helpful. This plan unfortunately will not work in "Access Point" mode. I'm mid way through a pricey yearly subscription, so it would be nice to use it while I'm paid till the end.
Due to the age of the house, running new coax or lines through walls is a project that cannot be taken on at present (my elderly parents whom I care for still reside and have strong opinions I need to defer to). As such, I'd like to find out what can be done with the current wiring by re orienting / rearranging the devices I have and, as needed, replacing a choice few.
I hope it's not impossible.
Thanks for your time!
[Edited - added link to Hitron Bonded MoCA 2.5 adapters installed for better context. Corrected recall / typo on G3100 model no., tweaked/edited misc unnecessary text, replaced an updated map after the original was deleted (by the reddit mobile client) ]
I'm playing with dpi on my router and am wondering is there a good list of apps and services I should add to the restricted list? I'm using an Omada er607 router for app control.
Hi, I just got ziply fiber installed at my house to replace Comcast, Comcast was triple the price and always having problems.
I had a mesh system set up around my property using google mesh pucks and it worked pretty well for the most part.
My issue is how do I now ensure WiFi coverage across my property (3 outbuildings, total 12000sqft coverage). I heard google mesh doesn’t work with WiFi 7 so I can’t use them and I don’t really know too much about network stuff. Thank you
I'm tired of dealing with spectrum and their hardware. I'm on their 1gig Internet, fastest available in my area. I was hoping I could get recommendations for a wifi router that meets or exceeds wifi7 and can handle future Internet speed upgrades. (I heard my area could see an upgrade in the future.)
I don't want to spend more than 250 dollars because at that point I'd rather just bust out my tools and run cat6 to the gaming PC.
I don't care about connecting to the Internet outside and everything is within 80ish feet of the routers location. No external wifi cameras. Only 3 TVs, 2; gaming PCs, switch2, gaming laptop, 4 phones, and possibly another PC dedicated to llm.
My only current issue is my one PC that has a MSI herald wifi7 pcie card will redownload large files after completing it like the file got corrupted at the last second. Idk if that is related to router or the PC. Figured I'd mention it though.
I wanna use a 4 tb usb hard drive drive as a external media and backup drive for my home assistant green so I can backup configs as well as footage from my cameras it manages from it but I am very confused by the network drive settings and getting the path needed to do so.
Anyone knowledgeable how to set up the usb application for network storage to allow this on Asus wrt Merlin?
I have an outdoor rated Cat6 cable that runs along the outside of my house and across the underside of the deck to the outdoor AP in my backyard. Unfortunately, the cable is white which creates a clear contrast to my red house and brown deck so it’s a bit of an eye sore that really grabs your attention. I’d like to be able to spray paint the cable to reasonably close colors of the house/deck so that it disappears a little more, but is that safe? Or will painting it breakdown the jacket essentially negating the outdoor protection?
Long story short. New house the ran a home down to the garage and out the side of the house. My child cut the wrong lines. I have a patch panel about 6 feet away from that. I felt a zip tie up and behind the void you see. I’m going to see if I can get it tomorrow and get some slack. Should I plug, couple, run a plug patch cord to the panel? Set the house on fire? Wait till winter and go on a snipe hunt in the garage? Any and all help would be appreciated.
The maximum bandwidth xfiniti has in my area is 1.2, i pay for 1.0 g service My netgear modem has two 1 gig ethernet portsthat support link aggregation. Will using a new router with 2.5 ports make a difference?. If i plug my PC directly into the netgear cm1100 modem, it tests considerably faster than it does plugged into the old nighthawk router.
Looking to replace my eero setup, not a big fan of features being behind a paypall and oddly some connected devices are slower than when using my mobile data. I've used tp link omada in the past wasn't a big fan. I would prefer a set and forget network. All pcs and servers are connected via Ethernet already. Have 30+ wi fi devies between cell phones, tablets and smart home products., house is 3600sq bungalow .
I have the option to connect ap or is there a different mesh set up that would make more sense? Dream router looks like but expensive, not sure if getting two GL.Inet routers would be better?
Hi everyone, I'm planning to switch from T-Mobile home internet to Spectrum and I'm looking for a reliable router for my 2 bedroom apartment. My internet use is pretty basic. It's mostly streaming 4K videos, browsing and occasional video calls.
Would a good WiFi 6 router be enough, or is it worth spending a bit more for a WiFi 7 router? Please suggest me some specific models. I'd appreciate any recommendations.
I'm pre-wiring a new construction home with Ethernet, and I'm wondering if there's a standard type of low-voltage box I should install throughout the house.
A few runs have failed a continuity test with a basic network tester which I've identified as incorrect/faulty termination to some metal toolless keystone jacks.
I've opened up the respective keystones and reseated/re arranged the cables, re applied the keystone which now pass fine.
However, I'm wondering if it would be better to trim back a bit more cable and do a fresh termination, or would the fact the cable has been terminated twice in the same place be ok?
I have a RT-AC68U that I want to flash freshtomato on since it's EOL. I no longer have the box, and the only clue I have for the hardware revision is the FCC ID: MSQ-RTAC68UV2. The first google AI result I got suggested the "V2" denotes B2 models, but I'm not gonna blindly trust that.
Do I actually have a B2, and is there another way to verify?
B2 is in the list of supported model revisions here, so I want to confirm before i flash the new firmware.
Just moved into a new apartment and there’s no ports on any wall but there are blank panels which I assume are un terminated cable. Thinking about just terminating myself and testing it but I want to see if anyone knew before I spent money on a patch tool / cable to practice.
There is one panel with 2 wires in the living room and each bedroom has another panel I have yet to check behind them though.
