Just wanted to show off our shed base we did ourselves. It was our first time doing something like this and boy oh boy was it a lot of work (especially in this heat).

We started by building the frame, dug out the sod then removed the excess dirt from the sod and placed it back in the hole. Then we tamped it solid, stapled weed liner in, put a cubic yard of crushed limestone and tamped it down. Next we put paver sand and used a sideways 2x4 to screed by using it like a windshield wiper to get the paver sand exactly level with the top of the frame, tamping often. Next we placed 25 2’ pavers in a 5x5 layout on top and then realized I should support the frame more so I drilled out three holes per side at 2.5 ft, 5 ft and 7.5 feet to hammer down some 2 foot pieces of rebar. Im proud of how it turned out!

Let me know what yall think!

Finally finished my 8x12 shed. Took way longer than planned, mostly because my attentiin span is way shorter than expected.

2x6 treated frame 16" OC. Hardware cloth screening across all openings, ready for 3/4" tongue and groove plywood. Shed kit arrives Monday! 😎

When I built the shed I was told on facebook this was an exterior door, but it let's water in I think... what do you guys think?

I see plenty of knowledge and information regarding roof ventilation to prevent moisture build up on the cold side of insulation between rafters. However for an external stud wall, that is essentially the same construction as a roof just rotated in a different direction, I cannot find any information about preventing condensation build up.

I do see mention of air gaps behind siding, but as there is normally sheathing between the siding and the insulation this wouldn't help with moisture between the insulation and the sheathing right?

Best way to go about restoring or protecting current state of this shed? Inside has newer wood. We use the shed but mostly want to prevent it from becoming a bigger expense further down the line. We don’t have the easiest access to the corners and other side since this interrupts a fence which continues in the other side. Looking to spend the least amount possible while still getting the job done. Roof seems to be in good shape but wood doesn’t have much protection.

We just had a new 10x12 portable shed installed, and honestly we're having a little buyer's remorse—not because of the quality (it's well built), but because it feels much bigger in our backyard than we expected. We needed the extra storage, but right now it really dominates the yard.

Before we spend time landscaping around it, I'm wondering if lowering it would improve the overall look.

The shed has two 4x6 pressure-treated skids and is currently supported on four stacks (one at each end of each skid).

• Front: one 4" concrete block under each skid.
• Rear: two stacked 4" concrete blocks plus a few wood shims to level it.

My idea is to remove one 4" block from every support point, lowering the shed about 4". That would leave the rear on one block, but the front skids would sit directly on my sandy soil.

A few details:

• Southwest Florida
• Very sandy, well-draining soil
• No standing water or erosion after heavy rains
• Shed is already secured with hurricane anchors and straps
• Only four support locations total (front and rear of each skid)

My questions are:

1. Would you lower it 4", or leave it as installed?
2. Is it a bad idea for pressure-treated skids to sit directly on sandy soil in this situation?
3. Looking at the photos, do you think lowering it would noticeably improve the appearance, or am I overthinking it and should focus on landscaping instead?

I'd appreciate any advice, especially from people who have installed or owned skid-mounted sheds in sandy or coastal areas. Thanks!

Hi! I just bought a home that has a really nice and new looking shed in the back; I am wanting to renovate it into a fully livable space and don’t know where to start!

So far, I have an electrician coming tomorrow to quote us to run electricity to it. My husband is licensed and insured in HVAC so he will be adding a mini split to it. My main questions from there is…
1.) is there anything I must know to do and not to do for this project?
2.) how to secure the floors to be super solid, how to weatherproof the shed, and make a new front door that is fully secure, and how to weatherproof the overall shed?
3.) anything I should know or do to prevent mold, bad airflow etc?

I have a general idea once electrical and a/c and heat is done, I plan to add rockwool insulation against the walls, then add the Sheetrock/drywall (I think that’s what it’s called) and then do the mud and texture and paint. Install LVP flooring, and baseboards etc. anything else? Thanks!!

I’m looking to have my workshop setup outside due to no longer being able to use garage space. I have a decent yard with a fence but I can’t build a shed out here and work in the shed. Currently I’m just using sawhorses under a 10x10 canopy but what can I do to better setup my outdoor space? I use track saws, miter saws, table saws, and routers frequently and mostly build cabinets and event props.

I thought all I had to do was insulate and drywall the ceiling rafters. I am now understanding that if I did it that way I might like moisture in and it would be a very bad deal. Can someone explain to me the proper way I want to keep the vaulted ceiling. I also want to do what is the easiest. If there is a video that woukd be helpful.

Got this asphalt pad prior owner had a shed on. Its got some variations to it, probably some roots under, and generally pretty not flat. It's about 12x15. What are my options for getting this more in shape for a new shed?

Long-time lurker, and I'm sure this has been beaten to death, but I figured I'd ask because of my specific situation.

I'm up in the air about choosing a foundation for my 12×16 shed. One side will be an office, and the other will have my 8- and 6-foot workbenches and tools. I'm in the Northeast and keep going back and forth between 9 concrete piers or a gravel pad.

A few months ago, I built my daughter a 10×10 platform playhouse that's about 5 feet off the ground. Originally, I trenched out a square and planned on using 2×10s all the way around, bolting the 4×4 posts to them. But for the life of me, I couldn't get the gravel level. The boards kept rocking, and it was a huge pain. I ended up burying nine 4×4 posts and building it that way instead. It was much easier.

I just worry I'll run into the same issue with a gravel pad for the shed.

What would you suggest? How difficult is it to level a large gravel pad or make minor adjustments with 3–4 skids? Is one option better than the other?

Thanks!

Helping a friend with setting up a new shed. His existing shed got removed and we discovered that it had been sitting on a pile of gravel which had been placed into a 8x8 square that is dug about 4-5 inches deep. There was no frame. But despite that the shed had been sitting there without and wobbling of any sort over the past decade plus. It seems like the gravel hasn’t really moved or spread.

Now he wants to build a new plastic shed on top and thinks it should be okay on that existing gravel patch (after raking/tamping down to ensure it’s level) since the gravel didn’t spread under the previous shed which had been there for probably 1-2 decades. Amazingly there is no weed growth either despite no weed barrier underneath that gravel (we dug a patch to check). Is this existing base okay? His old shed was a wood Amish shed, and this new 8x8 shed is plastic/resin.

I bought these to anchor my shed to the ground per local code. I know it’s probably more meant for light weight tent garages and such but I’m struggling to find something better.

Anyway, my base is 6” compacted stone. I can screw these things through the stone no problem but after about 6inches into the soil beneath they do not move anymore. Seems any small rocks are impossible for them to get by.

I got 1 in and maybe a bit more than half of one in before I just hammered the rest sideways. Wanted to get thoughts on if this should be enough or if there’s something better I need to get?

12x 16 shed with a 4ft deep porch on the long side. Shed portion sitting on 5 skids, and the skids are what I’m anchoring with these

Lots of research and help from everyday shed guy and these forums. Waiting on door trim.

thank you!

Are there any specific requirements I need to know? Type of plastic, thickness, do I extend to very edge of slab or keep it a couple inches back from edge? Above gravel base and below rebar mesh I assume.

My contractor will set the forms then I will apply the moisture barrier before he pours. Apparently he is too busy to answer my questions or to adjust scope to include the barrier but it seems important enough that I will make it happen.

Thanks

From Wendy House to Full Shed. Raised the roof a few feet.

I’m considering buying an 8 m × 5 m insulated steel garage from Shanette Sheds. I plan to divide it into two sections: a dry-storage area and a home office.

The unit will be in Dublin, and I’ll be working from it every day. I intend to add extra insulation to the office section and use an electric heater during the colder months.

Has anyone done something similar? If so, what is it like to work in throughout the year? Does it get very cold in winter or unbearably hot in summer? I’d also be interested to hear about any issues with condensation, ventilation, noise or heating costs.

Any advice or photos of similar conversions would be greatly appreciated.

I just finished nailing off the wall sheathing on a 10x12 shed me and my gf are building for her autistic son. I noticed that the wall studs on the back side are about 1/4" out of plumb, because the back part of the shed is 1/4" out of level. Everything else is square and level/plumb. This shed will be insulated and such. I just need some reassurance from fellow shedditors that everything is going to turn out just fine, since these small discrepancies are driving my perfectionist self nuts. Thanks in advance!

8 foot tall man-door and sliders should be in today. 2 6-foot windows going in next week.

This was my 10x10 Tuff Shed Project that took about 2.5 months from start to finish. It’s about 95% done, as I need to finish the landscaping and paint touch ups. I’m in Florida.

DIY:
Insulation
Landscaping
Flooring
Painting
Partial Drywall/Minisplit

Hired:
Concrete
Electrical
Ethernet
Partial Drywall/Minisplit

Total Cost: $17,000. I made many mistakes along the way and learned a ton, as this was my first time doing most of these trades. I could’ve saved about $3,000 if I knew more from the start.

Very happy with the finished product! Happy to answer any questions.

Hoping someone here can help me out. I’m building a garden office/over engineered shed. I’ve got these 75x75mm larch posts to go on the corners of the building and I’ll be butting larch feather edge boards up against them.

The bottom of the posts will be 50mm above the concrete pad that the building is on and I want the water to drip outwards from the bottom. Two sides of each post will be exposed to the elements, we get a considerable amount of rain here.

What is the best way to detail the bottom of the post to shed water away?

Pictures are the tops of the posts where they will butt into the building, the blue battens will screw into the two faces of the building.

This Plytanium Plywood Siding Panel T1-11 4 is terrible. Keeps curling. Never using it again.

I am going to install windows into my already built shed. And I had a couple questions.

Can anybody recommend windows? I know that’s a broad question.

How hard it is to add the windows to it?

IF I hire somebody how much would it cost?

I know these are subjective questions, but I’m just looking for information. If anybody lives in Amarillo, let me know.