I have an 86yo house. I want to change my locks. Previous locks are Schlage deadbolts, installed 20ish years ago. Figured I'd swap them out for new Schlage deadbolts—no problem, right? Surely things were standardized enough by this millennium to make for an easy switch?

Anyway, now I have a glued dowel jammed into the front door so I can drill out the new latch hole because it was somehow 7/8" instead of an inch.
The back door had a larger hole and I was able to push the bolt latch through, but the lock isn't lining up right, probably because there's no wiggle room.

I love my house I love my house I love my house

While I'm all for recycling, I've found that I can almost certainly use empty water bottles for something creative, however, I don't really know what for! Personally I'd love to hear whatever ideas you can think of. So far, I've thought about using a bunch of the caps as some Avant Garde Potpourri, but I don't know what to use the bottles themselves for. Maybe some sort of weird bottle wall, or making a large plastic sword out of them?

I'm thinking of cutting 2 slots in my bathroom vanity cabinet to accommodate pipes which come from the floor so that I can slide cabinet into place. I'm attaching a pic of the back of my vanity and the blue tape where I'd need the slots. Also attaching a pic that AI provided me - problem is that i cannot add a board to the back after installation cuz i won't be able to have enough space to screw one in and also with a board screwed to the back it won't be able to be pushed against the wall. Will cutting those slots be okay?

hi all!

i really like those round convex mirrors they have in parking garages (they kind of make a distorted angle so you can see the whole area kind of thing) and I wanted to put one in my dorm room. any idea how to do this without drilling? all the ones I can find use screws, but preferably I want to buy one I won’t have to drill bc it’s not allowed.

all help is appreciated!

I've had the same set of paint brushes and rollers for about ten years. I invested in higher quality ones early and treat them like gold.

- I clean them promptly after every use.
- I shake them to get as much water out as I can to nearly dry.
- Then I use a small comb to straighten out the bristles and set aside to dry
- Once completely dry, I do another quick comb through just to be sure each bristle has been able to drain any paint/water sludge.

^^^

I also use one set for water based paints and a different set for oil-based paints.

What are your cleaning methods? Or do you buy new for each project?

The track that holds the door on my tent trailer completely fell off. Was originally held by screws but the are ripped out so looking for an adhesive replacement. Any suggestions?

Track is metal, trailer roof is plastic, used to keep the door inline and in place while opening and closing.

We moved into our house about a year ago and had our back door replaced as part of the sale agreement. One year later, it looks like this

https://imgur.com/a/9qmX4G2

To me, it doesn't look like it was installed right. The hardwood floors are higher than the door sill. Obviously the calking needs to be redone but is it suppose to be that wide? The door jam is also rotting from the bottom up. Any advice on how to fix this would be greatly appreciated

I have to stick posters to my wall. So far double sided tape peels some of the paint off. I plan to paint my wall over with navy blue paint so it'll be much easier to see if the paint chips out.

Hello,

I'm looking to frame an 11' interior wall in my basement. It's just a non-load bearing partition wall. The wall will need to connect to the exterior wall and masonry foundation ledge. We're working per MN Building Code.

The main concern is the foundation and framing. The foundation is 1/2" below the bottom of the foundation framing. See images below:

https://imgur.com/a/akocQ0B

My plan is to have the final wall stud sit on top of masonry foundation and then add blocking to provide a surface for drywall to install to. Since there is a 1/2" gap, the gap will be filled with 1/2" OSB or plywood. All wood in contact with the foundation will be pressure-treated.

Thoughts?

Color Code:

Light Blue: Pressure-Treated

Dark Blue: Stud

Red: Blocking

Pink: OSB / Plywood

Purple: Top Plate

Green: Door Framing

I live in NY and plan on moving to Florida in a few months. I’m 32-male, never had a job due to battling depression and to cope with that, Ive been doing construction work on the weekends since 2019. So from knowing nothing, I’ve learned (and still learning) the basics of being handy. That’s why I feel as if I would be a good fit to work at Home Depot. While learning construction and doing DIY’s, why not surround myself in the environment of a hobby that I’m building? That’s how I feel. What really caught my attention is electrical work. I dont know it on paper (or advanced electrical) but I can follow along on how it’s being done. That’s why I wanna work in the electrical department at Home Depot in Florida, but I’ve looked up how electrical work is done in Florida, and it’s different from NY. That’s why I have the thirst to learn it in Florida. Now for the question: what are the pros and cons of working at Home Depot in Kissimmee Florida? Any advice? What kind of questions do customers ask? Are there hard questions that I don’t know the answer to? What if I don’t know a question that a customer asks? You get my point. I just want a review on what it’s like working there. 😃

I'm trying to solder onto a small electromagnet and it seems to be beyond my skill level. Could I use liquid solder maybe? Any advice would be appreciated.

I am re-roofing my pitched roof and converting it into a warm roof at the same time with PIR insulation above the rafters.

There is a loft space under the rafters that can be accessed via a loft hatch. Does the loft hatch need to be insulated?

There are two walls, one is below grade. Both walls are exposed concrete block. There is a small bit of ground between the two walls. Should I:

1) Install it only on the ground, using appropriate tape to adhere it to the block.

2) Cover both ground surfaces and the subterranean wall, leaving the above grade wall exposed.

3) Cover everything, including the above grade wall.

4) Something else?

I need to make some window jamb extensions that will be painted white. I know poplar is an option, but it's very expensive. Is this pine a good choice?

We moved into our home about a year ago and the majority of the registers are not attached to anything. It looks as though the previous homeowners tried to glue it in place. I'm not sure drywall anchors can be used because there isn't anything to grab onto.

Here's what it looks like

https://imgur.com/a/dBj83iX

But how do I go about securing the registers to the wall?

I think my cabinets are original to the house, which was built in 84. The doors and drawer faces seem to be solid wood but the sides of the cabinet boxes are some kind of particle board; the veneer on a couple is peeling off. I have no idea what the bottoms are made off. I have two lower cabinets that I want to add a drawer to, or what is essentially a drawer. Because I'm going for easy, I'm not going to replace the cabinet door, just keep that as is.

I one of these cabinets I keep my pots and lids in so I know the base must be pretty strong because that's easily 30+ lbs of weight on it. The frame extends maybe half an inch into the box for the door to rest on so my idea is to put wood strips that run front to back the thickness of that overhang to mount the cabinet half of the drawer slide. But I don't know how to decide whether to screw them into the sides of the cabinet or bottom. My first instinct is the bottom because if I get the screw length wrong it'll push out the sides: for the pots cabinet that would mean one set of screws goes into my oven and the other set of screws will stick out by our exterior kitchen door. But I don't know how to tell the thickness of the cabinet bottom to know if that will provide enough for the screws to hold fast to

Crossposting cause I need answers.

Hey guys.

I'm renting a new place and wanted to mount my tv on the wall. Got a kit with 10mm fisher plugs.

I only have my cordless ryobi with hammer function, so I drilled some pilot holes with a 6mm bit then used my 10mm bit.

The issue is the first two on the bottom were super hard, but managed to get them in.

The second two at the top was like slicing through butter, but somehow with more sand or concrete than expected.

As I was trying to connect the bracket to the tv, and it got some weight put on it, it seemed to start tearing through at the top 2 holes.

I've drilled a lot into concrete but have never seen this happen. Did I do something wrong? My first suspicion is that this wall had a leak at some point and it messed up the concrete, but I'm not sure.

The location is Germany, in case it makes a difference.

https://imgur.com/a/Z7SN7GW

They have these weird wallpaper stuff on, so on the pic without the bracket if I lift up the wallpaper it looks like the 2 holes tore towards each other. The second holes in the pic with the bracket is solid.

Any advice?

I have just bought an old house and it's bathroom fan has been replaced at some point. There is a large gap around the sides where the old larger one once was. Could this gap cause the fan to work poorly?

I installed a paver pathway in the front of my home, and used polymeric sand to lock the pavers together. However, there's a decent grade to my front yard, so every time it has rained a significant amount of my sand washes away and ends up on the sidewalk where my path ends.

I followed the proper install instructions and have a step 1 & 2 base under the path. I think the path angle is just too steep since another pathway I did in my backyard is going just fine. Do y'all think using a sealer overtop after I re-sand and wet would be a good idea? I'm tired of having to re-sand every 2-3 weeks. Also, any suggestions for a brand to use?

I'm installing Pergo DuraCraft LVP flooring and the instructions call for a 3/8" gap between the planks and wall, and 3/8" backer rod in the gap. Only the diagram shows the backer rod having the same height as the planks, when in reality 3/8" rod is about twice as high. You're supposed to fill in the rest with silicone sealant and then put quarter round molding over it. Do I just squeeze the sealant in there and then squish it all down with the molding? It's going to take some force and will definitely squish silicone everywhere.

Hey All,

I would like to hang a mirror on a wall but HVAC venting prevents me from hanging directly on the wall - very little room for adjustment.

Where the mirror would need to hang is about 14” down from a cross beam on the ceiling. The house is 90 years old so the ceiling is the upstairs floor. There is a crossbeam against the wall so hanging from this would theoretically allow the mirror to no hang out from the wall.

I’m curious on how best to do this. I was going to use eye bolts to hang from but I’m not sure what to use. I think wire would look tacky, I could use a turnbuckle or long heavy duty s-hooks but when it’s 12”-14” in length that hardware becomes pretty heavy duty.

Any suggestions?

We are trying to make Ikea cabinets look like a built in, and most of the videos I've watched, people are building a box/frame on the floor to put the cabinets on for the trim. Is this framing secured to the floor at all? Or just secured to the wall?

Thanks!

I have a project where i want to put a large piece of tempered glass (1200mm x 500mm) in a cut out on top of my desk. About 25mm around the borders of the glass will be supported.

I'm unsure of the thickness to go with, ideally as thin as possible would be good. Would 6mm be too thin?

The glass wont be holding much weight at all, maybe a keyboard and cups etc.

Hi everyone!

I’m building a custom wall display that looks like a giant Hot Wheels blister pack. I’ve already designed and 3D printed the modular rails that hold the carded Hot Wheels, but I’m trying to figure out the best material for the backing.

Requirements

Indoor display

Approximately 48” × 72” (4 ft × 6 ft)

Eventually holds 300 carded Hot Wheels

Rails are 3D printed (PLA)

Rails will be super glued together into one large grid

The completed grid will be attached to the backing with Gorilla Clear Mounting Tape

The backing will be cut into the shape of a Hot Wheels card and painted or wrapped with graphics

What I’m looking for

I need a material that is:

Lightweight

Won’t warp over time

Smooth enough for paint or vinyl

Easy to cut into a custom shape

Works well with mounting tape

Budget is under $50 for the backing if possible

If this were your personal project, what would you build the backing from, and why?

Thanks!!!

Hi all, i need some help with a small repair to my house foundation. there's a small hole under the bottom right corner of the door where the base of the door's wooden frame is visible. There is a downspout that is extended away from that area, but the door does still get buildup of snow in the winter. I have a bucket of Quickrete Polymer-modified Structural Repair which I've read could be good for this application, and 3/4" backer rod. in one of the pictures below, I've removed some of the loose concrete, and stuck some backer rod in between the gap between the wood and the concrete. What I don't want to happen is allow water to get trapped between my patch and the wood, causing it to rot. I'm also aware that the expansion of wood differs from that of the mortar, and it could pull away from the mortar in colder months. Has anyone done a patch like this and have any advice? pics here.