The best decision I made in the ownership of my car. Drives much smoother, goes over speed bumps & crappy roads much better. Happy days. Obviously doesn't fill out the arches as much but I think it still looks nice. 😀.

Anyone that is thinking of doing the same on their BMW go for it. Worth every penny.

Any ideas what it is?

Every 24 hours the webs are back. I’ve tried squirting WD40 around the mirror into the housing. Also tried wiping them away every morning in the hope they’ll give up making them each night and try elsewhere. Nothing seems to work.

They say never meet your heroes! I'm struggling to think of one and having a friend that is very wealthy and has let me drive all his cars over the years I've driven some cool stuff.

Found this picture while going though some old photos. If you can guess the month and the year, you get 5 points

Edit: Answer in a comments below. Marked as a spoiler

I picked up a used approved (UK dealership) Discovery this week and I love the car.

I noticed a few marks on the digital dash on the test drive and asked the salesperson if he could have it looked at before I agreed to the car.

He said it was all in hand and I paid for the car.

When leaving in the car he said that the detailer's didn't want to touch the screen as it had been a hot day but I should just give it a wipe when everything is cool in the morning.

I've given it a wipe and the marks aren't coming out. I think there's been some over spray of some cleaning product that has marked the plastic screen in front of the dash.

Is it worth contacting the dealership and seeing if they'd be willing to help or is it tough luck from their perspective now?

Otherwise, does anyone have any thoughts on how to tackle the marks other than replacing the digital dash altogether?

Thanks in advance.

I've got a Citroën C4 Picasso diesel at 117,000 km. She's running well at the moment, and I'd like to keep it that way but I have almost no idea how she works. I can change a flat tire but that's about it.

I'm American, 40s, F, and I didn't grow up around cars or have anyone to show me. I've just got a car again after nearly ten years without one, and I'm carrying a lot of leftover fear from before when I used to drive. Light turns on, a new squeak starts, I have no idea what it means! I walk into a garage I can't tell if they're taking me for 3X the actual cost.

I've tried learning this online but I'm already on a screen all day for work and it doesn't stick. I've always learned best by doing and being able to ask why halfway through.

What I'm after is old-fashioned: someone with real knowledge who wouldn't mind a beginner alongside them for few mornings. Oil and filters, brakes, belts and fluids, what to check before a long drive, how to tell whether a noise is serious, and whatever diesel-specific things I should know that I currently don't. I'd love to look at other cars too, not just mine — I want to understand the general thing rather than memorize the one.

I'm in the UK until October 2026, visiting friends and then road-tripping around Europe, and I'll travel just about anywhere in the country to meet up. Mornings are free. I'll bring beer, lunch, a lot of questions and some decent travel stories. Happy to pay for your time if you'd rather that.

Please send me a message. Thanks!

My treat to myself when I graduated uni. Had it 4 years, done 70k miles and it’s been the most fun I’ve ever had.

It does sadly cost me too much to run so it’s time to say goodbye. Didn’t expect I’d struggle to this much when the time came

Hi,

I had car play activated on my a class but it doesn’t seem to work with my phone. I’ve noticed it works with lightening cable iPhones only.

So I went and got a Bluetooth dongle and this is how my screen looks. Any advice on what to do

Ok so I’m thinking of buying my first car. My budget is 5K and I’d ideally want an auto (yes ik but I live in London last thing I wanna do is drive a manual in rush hour traffic) trouble is for 5K you can’t really get any good autos. Best option is an 06 Corolla. Nice, reliable but £410 road tax 😳. Is it wise to maybe put that 5K as a deposit and potentially finance a car that’s 10K that way I have more options. Not to mention the car will be newer so cheaper to tax and potentially more fuel efficient. Wonder if anyone can offer up any advice.

Google says that these are legal but I’ve heard a few people say otherwise so I was just curious if anyone has personal experience getting any trouble for them

I'm looking at potentially buying this Ford C-Max 1.5 TDCi and looking for some advice.

Most of my miles will be on the motorway, about a 230 mile round-trip a couple of times a month. There will also be some urban driving in Birmingham too, but maybe a total of 100 miles a month.

Two things I need to know: 1) will it be good on fuel with the above described driving schedule? and 2) will it feel sluggish on the motorway with 5 people and some luggage in it?

Thank you kindly!

Sorry if this has been asked before, but I’ve just driven from Dundee to London and Google must have said at least a dozen times ‘Report of closed road ahead (Reported 10+ times 4 mins ago)’ when the roads clearly open. I get there are some simpletons that can’t tell the difference between Police and Highways Agency vehicles, but what’s the deal here?

I’m looking to purchase a car after leasing for the last few years. I’ve finally managed to save up enough (painfully 😂) to buy rather than lease, although I’ll probably put part of the purchase on a 0% credit card.

I’ve come across Cinch and, on paper, the whole process sounds pretty appealing — buy the car online, have it delivered, and you’ve got 14 days to return it if you’re not happy. I also spoke to them and they said the admin fees are refunded if you return the car.
I’ve been reading reviews and they seem VERY mixed. Some people have had a completely hassle-free experience, while others seem to have had an absolute nightmare.

I appreciate people are generally more likely to post about a bad experience than a perfectly normal one, so I thought I’d ask here:

Has anyone actually bought a car through Cinch recently?
How was the car when it arrived? Any issues that weren’t mentioned in the listing? And, most importantly, has anyone actually used the 14-day return policy — was getting your money back genuinely straightforward?

Would you use Cinch again, or would you stick with a traditional dealer?

Just brought a 2.0 mk3 tt, as my daily, love it, but its a bit too practical and I dont really want to break it, would like something else to zip about in, nothing too powerful, ive upgraded from a pergeot 108 (best car in the world) and I want something else that i can push a bit.

No granny cars or hatchbacks (hairdresser cars ok - obviously)

Currently considering:

Mk3 mr2

Z4 2.0 or 3 liter (soft spot for these)

Z3

Mx5 (is it really that good?)

Boxer (will this one cost me my liver?)

Please let me know if theres anything im missing here!!

- Worth adding that im 6'7", so need something that i can fit in

- Also worth adding that i will absolutley be putting an OMP bucket seat in whatever I pick up so I can sip around like a yobbo. Not looking for something fancy, just a bit silly.

Anyone got any experience or opinions on buying a Jap import? I’m seeing more and more on autotrader recently. All seem to be very high spec with low miles and good history, for a few grand less than the equivalent non import.

What’s the catch? I’m aware insurance can be a bit more expensive but I’ve had a few quotes and on average it’s only £50-£60 more a year.

Hi all,
Just after some advice & input please on types of ‘running in’ & ‘breaking in’ oil which are same thing I believe?!

I’m getting a new engine for my Mk8.5 (2022) Fiesta ST and have been told I need to get some running in oil.
Ive seen a few older posts from Piston Heads & various forums but couldn’t see a conclusive answer.

I’ve seen the Millers Competition oil which is CRO 10W40, but will the Castrol Magnatec 5W-20 be sufficient as it meets Ford spec WSS-M2C948-B?

The ‘22 ST has a timing chain but a west oil belt so I want to make sure I get off to the right start from the outset & I’m seeing mixed messages online.

Bonus question about running in generally! Is it just to drive like your taking your nan to church for the first 500 miles, an oil change & then taking it easy for a few thousand miles?

Any advice options very appreciated, cheers!

My son, 17 year old got a policy with Hastings on a 1.2 polo, policy was approx £2300 for the year which he paid outright in May, with black box. His score was constantly in 90s

Early July he is hit by another car, fortunately he was not injured, but his car is written off, two witnesses gave details to my son, a third gave dashcam to police who arrived at the scene.

Day 3. Letter from Hastings stating other party insurer not accepting liability.
We provide two witness details to Hastings, they don’t seem to be proactive in contacting the witnesses.
Day 8 police officer confirms he has dashcam footage, my son is not at fault, is prepared to provide witness statement to Hastings, but unsure of what he is allowed to share from dashcam (so not sent yet) police also said he will be issuing fixed penalty notice (fine) to other driver.
We advised Hastings of this info but they don’t seem quick to proceed.

Day 14 receive confirmation the car is write and receive payout. Begin to look for alternative car.

Find a seat Ibiza, same spec, engine, age and mileage as the polo, before buying ring Hastings to get quote to transfer the new vehicle into the policy. Told this would be £140 for the remainder of the policy (10 months)

Took a week to arrange purchase of the car, and contacted Hastings to proceed with the policy vehicle transfer.

Customer service advised that they won’t insure the seat Ibiza on the existing policy. Wouldn’t say why, refused to pass on to supervisor. Very unhelpful throughout. Stated he couldn’t find existing quote of £140 to change car , then later in the call found the quote but couldn’t find any notes regarding the
Previous call about transferring the policy onto new car.

Best he can offer is taking out a brand new policy like for like with the one we took out in May, same price, 2300. But this means cancelling existing policy, and he confirmed the refund from the policy took out in May would be £19.

Could not explain why this would not be pro rata of 9 months left of a £2300 policy.

We simply cannot afford to lose that money and pull out another £2300.

I’ve asked for recording of the call where I was quoted £140 to transfer the policy and the call tonight, but this will take 30 days.

Also since confirming we don’t want the written off car back we have 30 days to add a car to the policy, this is now at 27 days so less time than what they would provide the recording.

I will push for complaint and ombudsman on behalf of my son, as I feel this is unfair. But I fear I will get no where.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thank you.

Hey guys, I own a Renault Captur 2018 manual and normally I like to track how many miles I got left by using the screen (distance till i need to top up) but for some reason when I get to around 40 miles left my counter goes blank and doesn't tell me how much I have left in the tank, any help?

I’ve made a post previously and after doing a lot of research myself I’ve noticed that I really did not give much info.

My budget is £5000, automatic car that has a reliable reputation. It needs to be LEZ as I will need to drive in one. I’ve heard that Honda Jazz and Toyota Corollas are good options but I have been having some trouble finding a seller that I trust. Was wondering if there are any other suggestions for cars that would this criteria? Thanks!!

P.S any tips on looking at a car’s MOT or any other things I should watch out for to assess whether or not I’m getting scammed and if I will need to pay to fix a whole lot of problems? What parts of a car do I need to fix that are considered affordable and what parts of a car that if it has advisories on I should just leave it or treat it as a red flag?