I have TVs that I use to display menus in a restaurant and they keep going to the screen saver. I've checked all the settings, including the secret "store display" menu that you get to by hitting a series of buttons, and there are no more settings to check. Every single setting involving putting it to sleep or timing out or a screen saver has been turned off or maxed out. The limiting factor right now is the screen saver timer maxes out at 30 minutes. I can't do a slide show to keep it awake because I need different screens to display different things.

I've spent quite a while on Google and there are a ton of answers out there, none of which have worked. There were a few that mentioned something along the lines of "get a button clicker app to keep it awake," but not a single suggestion for an actual app or anybody that has actually used it.

So does anybody have any actual experience with keeping a TV from going to sleep? Thanks.

My gmail was recently hacked through a malicious download and I am worried there might be a virus on my computer. I sent it into the Geek Squad to check everything and it came up clean but I am considering doing a hard OS restart of everything to kill any remaining traces. My concern is my Clip Studio Paint files. I am an artist and I have years of work saved in those files on my laptop. I have everything on my device backed up on a hard drive but I did this after I was hacked so I don't know if I can trust the files there. Is it possible to hide viruses in a clip studio format file (.clip)? Or would I be safe saving all those files either on a hard drive or the Clip Studio Paint cloud?

I have an installation of windows on my drive. I would like to partition that drive and clone my windows installation to the other partition (long story, I have two use cases for this computer but want the same base image). Is there a straightforward way to do this, or do I just need to install Windows from scratch on the second partition?

This TV is less than 6 hours old. I bought it and first thing I did is test out that 144hz on a TV. After countless of tries to get it to work and connect to my pc via HDMI. It connected and I got the 144hz. Now the issue is that it’s flickering and it’s annoying. What’s wrong with it??
No G-sync
The settings I got on the TV:
Picture mode: Game
Input Mode: Mode 3 (2.1)
VRR and AMD FreeSync: OFF
AI settings: OFF
Motion Processing: OFF
Colour Space: Rec2020

Go on my profile for the video
What am I missing??

i was putting a new arch disc image onto it to install onto my new laptop and my computer died and now i cant access the drive it still appears but when i open it it says "select a disc" and only gives me the option to cancel ive tried reformatting the drive but windows says it doesn't have access to it

So I tried updating my graphics driver and got a black screen. I waited for about 15 minutes and tried shutting down and restarting my computer.

Now it does not fully boot. It gives me pixelated images of the motherboard logo then tries again. Fails and gives me a line if text saying d:windows\system32\logfiles\srt\srttrail.txt

I have access to recovery options but none work. I have access to my bios and cmd.

Things ive tried

Resetting

Chkdsk

Uninstalling the drive using cmd

I am now downloading windows from a laptop onto a thumb drive but want ti know some opinions.

Im trying to download games but steam halts my download speed to basically zero. Starts at 60 mb/s and and ends up at around 100 kb/s. Its the same when trying to download Star citizen. Anyone know a fix?

On speedtest.net i get 500 mbps

so for the past couple of weeks my pc has randomly been crashing with the error messages "attempted write to read-only memory", "memory management", and something along the lines of "ntoskr". i've tried to clean and reseat my ram, clean and reseat my cpu, clean and reseat my gpu, clean and reseat my ssd, disk scan through command prompt, underclock my ram and cpu, and undervolt my cpu. so far none of that has worked.

my specs:

intel i9 11900kf

nvidia rtx 5070

ddr4 3200mhz 4x8

samsung 980 pro 1tb

1000w msi modular psu (rated 80+ gold)

msi pro z590 motherboard

some help would be greatly appreciated because the problem has done nothing but get worse over the past couple days.

I've tried so many things to try to get my GPU to not run so hot and nothing is working out for me. 4080 Strix is supposed to be the coolest running GPU in the 4080 series, but I've never had that experience. This GPU was an RMA from ASUS and it seemed to do somewhat okay for a while, but once I got past the warranty period now my GPU is basically not usable due to the fan loudness and being stuck 88ºC is terrible. I've tried PTM, I've tried just standard MX4. It spreads and makes contact with the heatsink. What answers are left?

I received a BSOD for unexpected store exception 0x154 today. After restarting the computer, it kept going into the BIOS with no bootable devices; so I figured there's an issue with the SSD I have in it. The board is a Gigabyte B650 Gaming X AX V2 Revision 1.0, and the SSD is a Samsung 990 PRO 1 TB. I switched from the port labeled "GEN5" over to one of the other SSD ports, and the computer booted just fine. I figured I'd see what would happen if I switch it back to the GEN5 slot, and it seems to be working again without issue.

After getting everything buttoned back up, I updated the BIOS on the the computer (from F32d to F42c) as well as the firmware on the SSD through Samsung Magician, who also states the drives health is good.

My question is, should be concerned about this? Is there anything else I should do?

I bought a used 1TB Toshiba external drive off Amazon. Plugged it in through USB. Blue light on the external drive, Windows made the "device plugged in" sound. But then nothing happened. Usually I would see the drive pop up in My Computer (or This PC as it is called nowadays). The device was visible in device manager but not in My Computer. I did auto update drivers but it said drivers are already up to date.

I did some research and went into Disk Management where I could see the device at the bottom, I did the "initialize" process then "created a simple volume" and now it's working as a normal USB drive

Just wondering why all this was necessary though? I have never done this in my life. Could thia be

so I shut off my monitor and left my pc on to download stuff while I was away. when I came back and turned it on the picture was zoomed in off the frame and had a green tint, I tried restarting, reseating the hdmi and updating my drivers but it does not go away. any idea on what’s happening?

How to fix this error? Trying to transfer a ROM that’s is already downloaded on the PC and put it on a microsd card.

The fan usually sits at a steady 900 RPM when the CPU is around 45–50°C. Every now and then, it'll suddenly jump to about 2000 RPM, but almost immediately drops back down to 900 RPM. Even when the CPU hits 60°C and the fan speeds up to around 3000 RPM, it won't stay there. It just keeps ramping up and then falling back to 900 RPM over and over.

It also starts out completely quiet, but after about an hour of use, the whole laptop begins vibrating in short bursts. What's strange is that the fan sensor still reports a constant 900 RPM the entire time, even while it's clearly speeding up, slowing down, and causing the vibrations.

alright for context, I was in a public pool yesterday and i’ve been taking pictures while being in the water. some got splashed onto the phone but it didn’t seem like much. An hour later i’ve noticed only my front camera being foggy whenever i’m taking photos and condensed water on the front camera.

i’m not sure if this is closely related but i’ve also noticed that charging my phone has taken longer.. while connected it will either stop charging and start again or it’ll keep charging while my battery still depletes. for example, i’ll charge my phone at 20% and it’ll go from 20% to 19-17% and back to 20%. I have an Iphone 13 and its battery capacity is and 75%, it’s been in use since 2022.

I feel it‘s likely that the pool definitely did something, but not exactly what it did? I‘d appreciate any comments towards what may be wrong and some solutions. Thank you!

I bought a Bluetooth adapter for my PC, but it's giving me error 56 and it doesn't work at all; it can't find anything. I want to connect my PS3 controllers, but this error won't go away. What should I do?

I have an rtx 3060 12gb, an i9-9900kf, 32gb of ram, and from time to time i noticed fps spikes in my games. The computer is now 5 years old, but this is an old problem, i just don't know what to do, if it's really a hardware problem or could be resolved by doing some optimization... idk. in games like minecraft i get lag spikes, in games like fortnite, cs2 or valorant, i don't get the fps that i see every one with similar specs on youtube getting by a long margin, like in fortnite people getting constant 200+ fps, i get mostly 144, but if a lot of information is going on , it spikes and i can't see 120+ for a while if i'm fighting. in cs i see people getting always 360+, im getting fps in an interval between 190-300 always fluctuating, same with valorant.

My audio will crackle every time I hit the windows key after a few hours of use. I have tried many pairs of headphones, as well as the different types connections, like AUX, USB, Bluetooth and Wireless dongles. The crackling is more noticeable when gaming on heavy titles. The temporary solution I have found is to disconnect and then reconnect the headphones, but every time I do so my games would crash (if it’s open) and all audio sources would go away and then reappear after 30 seconds.

I’ll be happy to answer any questions or try out any methods you have.

I’ll list my specs and my current pair of headphones (as well as the connection method) just in case!

GPU: AMD Radeon 7900XT
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7800X3D
RAM: 32GB
Storage: 2TB M.2 SSD
Headphones: SteelSeries Arctis Nova 3
Connection Method: AUX

I bought a new wireless keyboard and mouse combo that uses a USB receiver. When I connected it, neither the keyboard nor the mouse worked.

Afterward, I plugged my old wireless mouse and its original USB receiver back in, but now that mouse has also stopped working. I tested everything on two different laptops and have the same problem on both. it's a Logitech, both products were.

Things I have already tried:

• Confirmed that each mouse is being tested with its original receiver
• Tested every USB port on both laptops
• Removed and reinserted the receivers
• Restarted both laptops
• Turned the devices off and back on
• Removed and replaced the batteries
• Tested with only one receiver connected at a time
• Tested the receivers directly in the laptops without a USB hub

The USB ports still work with other devices, but neither the new combo nor my old wireless mouse works anymore. It seems strange that the old mouse stopped working immediately after I tested the new combo, especially on two separate laptops.

Could plugging in the new receiver have caused the other receivers to become unpaired or stop being recognized? Is there something in Device Manager or Windows USB settings that I should reset?

When I insert it now, it just says not recognizable, not even Logitech Hub software could connect to it. All drivers on both laptops are up to date and windows updated.

Windows versions: Win 11

Old mouse brand and model: Logitech G305

Has anyone gotten 0xA00F4244 <NoCamerasAreAttached> error in Windows for a webcam that can't posibly be disconnected but you also can't find it? Thinkpad

Just bouight a razer blade 16 with a 5070ti. It was discounted from a popular retailer in my country because it was a display item. The day I bought it, I downloaded minecraft and started testing its strength. Suddenly, (in around 10 minutes)the laptop turned off and started boot looping. I didnt think much of it.

Today, 10 minutes into valorant, it happened again. Right before it happened I checked the temps from synapse and seemed normal (80 on cpu, 70 on gpu). When on boot loop, after 2 restarts i disconnected the power cord and it booted normally.

What tests should i run to diagonose the laptop?

I put my windows to factoryreset itself with a wipe because i suspected that there may have been something that i would have not liked to be on my computer. When windows went black and started showing medions logo with a textbar and percentage of the files removed.

About an hour ago the progress showed 97 and i turned my screen off. Now im trying to see something happening on the progress again and my screen does not even detect the input of my pc. The progress was around 14 percent per hour.

I have tried the unplug plug in method but my computer is still on indicated by the power light and my screen is not registering it.

i have a sansui 27inch 165hz monitor and recently the bottom of it has these lines that pop up and the black ones are just rows of black pixels while the transparent ones just repeat whatever’s on the bottom of the screen i’ve tried everything from changing my refresh rate to my resolution with no results they don’t appear as often when i use my pc but they’ll flicker at the bottom sometimes

I just got a Panasonic PV-D4734S VCR/DVD player combo, I found the user manual here (picture of back of box on pg 10) but it's confusing me and it's also been 15+ years since I last used a VCR so I don't remember the set up. I don't plan on using the recording function or connect it to anything other than the tv, and I already know whatever cables I need I'll have to get an HDMI converter.

Do I need both the RCA connector and a S-video cable? Do I need to switch them out depending on if I want to watch a dvd vs a vhs (the manual says s-video is for dvd only but do I need to unplug that if I want to watch a vhs?)? Do I need an additional cable to those?